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Fuji X-Series photo settings

Discussion in 'X-T2, X-T1, X-T20, X-T10' started by LouisCypher, Oct 12, 2017.

  1. LouisCypher

    LouisCypher New Member

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    Hi guys,
    whilst creating this thread as my first on this forum, I'd like to say hello to everyone and invite you to join this topic as some of us might find it very useful for the future (including me).

    So, in this topic you can share your thoughts around pic settings you use on a daily basis along with sample pictures and/or different situations in which you use them (for example: film simulation/amount of colour, etc. for weddings, night shootings, portraits etc.).

    Whilst uploading your pictures, please add some information about more settings you used -
    Camera: | Lens: | f/ | exposure: | ISO:

    Film simulation:
    Colour:
    Shadows:
    Highlights:
    Noise Reduction:
    Sharpness:
    White Balance:
     
  2. Lead

    Lead Member

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    My experience is to keep it simple. I've tried various in camera settings but always come around eventually to using the default. So for me it's Provia sim with all the settings on 0.
    I use auto ISO, mostly DR100 - sometimes AutoDR, Aperture Priority mostly sometimes full Program Auto.
    I tend to provide more contrast in the limited PP I carry out - contrast, crop, straighten.

    X-T2 and X100T. 35mm, 18mm, 18-55 zoom.
     
  3. Tilphot

    Tilphot Premium Member

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    Make sure to check out this thread to learn the basics about film simulations.

    Please login or register to view links

    Depending on your camera model and personal taste, be aware that the Noise Reduction setting has a tendency to oversmooth skin to an extent that everyone looks like their wax-model at Madame Tussaud's. I keep NR always to -2, but also try to never go beyond ISO 3200.
     
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  4. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    I think that is valid on X-Trans1 and 2 but not on X-Trans3, 6400 and 12800 can produce great results as long as the image is correctly exposed.
     
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  5. Tilphot

    Tilphot Premium Member

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    Yep, I'm an X-T1 shooter. However, if I remember correctly, there were mixed opinions about the X-Trans 3's low light performance, weren't there?

    To the OP: It would be helpful if you told us what camera you're using!
     
  6. kenbennett

    kenbennett Premium Member

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    I try to keep it very simple as well. I don't worry too much about various settings, since 100% of my photos will be imported into a raw processor and finished there.

    So, I use the Astia film simulation (which I also use 99% of the time in Lightroom), and keep the camera set to aperture priority with auto white balance and auto ISO. I usually keep a max of 3200 ISO but often in low light will shoot up to 12,800 and the files are very usable.

    Of course if I am shooting with off camera flash, I set everything to manual and work from there.
     
  7. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    @Tilphot I think that was because if you use it and process like previous X-Trans sensors you get poor results. Its taken me a year to really get the hang of X-Trans3 and now its low light (and shadow recovery capability) are simply stunning.

    X-Trans3 must be exposed correctly, it is very sensitive to post processing exposure adjustment and then any attempt at shadow recovery. However the High ISO noise on an X-Trans3 is very different to previous X-Trans sensors and is far easier to clean up.

    I know this is side tracking the thread a bit but it helps to show what X-Trans3 is capable of in a non full time professionals hands!

    X-T2, XF23mmF1.4, ISO12800 SOOC ACROS
    Please login or register to view links by Please login or register to view links, on Flickr

    X-T2, XF90mm, ISO12800 SOOC Provia
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    X100F ISO6400 - processed in LR and using NIK Dfine
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    X100F ISO5000 - processed in LR and using NIK Dfine
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    X100F ISO6400 - processed in LR and using NIK Dfine
    Please login or register to view links by Please login or register to view links, on Flickr
     
  8. Lubidog

    Lubidog New Member

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    I like to play with the highlights and shadows if I’m shooting in black and white. Depending on what I’m trying to capture. If I’m going drama, up them shadows! I’ve just been snapping an old friend of mine, with wrinkles aplenty. Gotta bring them out.
    On the other hand, if I’m shooting my 9 month old, I want to soften them shadows and warm the highlights.
    Also, I like to change the green, yellow and red filters depending on the subject. The lovely thing with the X-T2 is I can do all this without taking my eye from the EVF.

    Ted Viera has a YouTube video about this.
     
  9. ysarex

    ysarex Premium Member

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    I expose for the best possible raw file and only save raw files. To help me do that I keep the WB on my X-T2 set to unity (histogram better matches raw) and keep the EVF preview function disabled. I leave the EC on my camera set to +1 by default and typically increase exposure from there. Since I never save a JPEG I ignore the JPEG related settings which makes using the camera in the field simple and straight forward. JPEGs from my camera typically look like this:

    camera_jpg.jpg

    which is why I never save them. In that photo the EC = +1.67 -- the green tint is from the unity WB. The raw file exposure is textbook perfect and the processed photo:

    floodplain.jpg
     
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  10. LouisCypher

    LouisCypher New Member

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    I'm using X-T20 with (mostly) 56mm f1.2
     

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