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Fashion show shot with X-T2 not nearly as sharp as 5DIII. What to do?

Discussion in 'X-T2, X-T1, X-T20, X-T10' started by cathy, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. cathy

    cathy Member

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    Nice drawing! :) Thanks for your comments. I agree with all that you are saying.
    I wish I had posted a different example of faster shutter speed, higher ISO etc (the last two screen shots) because that is the ONLY shot I took that day where there is obviously motion blur in her dress.
    Instead of making my point about how different camera settings didn't make much of an improvement, I just opened another can of worms :( Good to get advice about that too though.

    Here's the part I am working to learn more about: "an FF DSLR behaves differently from a Fuji APS-C mirrorless" So far I'm learning this the hard way!
     
    Dirk Offringa likes this.
  2. bobbyzfx

    bobbyzfx Premium Member

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    Dirk, nice drawing and good points but what I am saying is the photog who should NOT have been using the Zone or Pre-Focus mode. If you used AF with focus point on the face, it would have been OK.
     
  3. bobbyzfx

    bobbyzfx Premium Member

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    Would be nice to know how they behave differently? Every camera mfg has a little different settings but overall it is same principals. Since you shoot 5dmk3, maybe you can tell how that is different from XT1 for these kind of shots. I use 5dmk3 along with XT1 lot of times and my technique, settings are same whether I am using 5dmk3 or the XT1.
     
  4. Dirk Offringa

    Dirk Offringa Premium Member

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    Which, if you read my post entirely, is exactly what I pointed out:

    Just added some additional tech stuff I thought being part of the problem as well.

    :)
     
  5. Dirk Offringa

    Dirk Offringa Premium Member

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    exiftool can do that. But with a Gui like this on top it's more convenient: Please login or register to view links
     
  6. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

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    You need to test for yourself as the explanation is not easy.
    I will explain a setup that you need to test when I have more time.
    I have been traveling for the last 2 days and wont have time to do a full explanation this week. I have to catch up on 3 months of stuff while I have been away. The explanation by Dirk is good but explains only part of it. There are other aspects.
     
  7. cathy

    cathy Member

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    I just realized no one suggested using boost mode. I have not tried it yet. Does it make a big difference in AF performance?
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2017
  8. Greg_E

    Greg_E Premium Member

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    It may just be me, but when I'm looking at these images, it seems that the focus point is slightly behind the model's face. This is suggesting to me that either the prefocus spot was wrong, or the AF is not working properly. As a few other people have suggested, try using AF with the focus box on the model's face and see if that helps. Of course it's easy to say this, but might be difficult to put yourself into a similar location to test this out.
     
  9. Greg_E

    Greg_E Premium Member

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    Does anything is this thread help?

    Please login or register to view links
     
  10. James J Hackett

    James J Hackett New Member

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    Hi there,
    Sorry to hear about your problems, Had something similar happen to me. I have Cannon 5d mk 2 and X T1 so similar to your circumstances.
    happened twice before I clocked it. Using the xt1 with large/heavy lens it is very easy to catch the front left focus control switch and
    you can then find it is hunting on continuous focus as you compose your shot not very easy to see as you said light levels are
    pretty low, I had similar problems at some boxing matches I photographed as having to concentrate on an instant in time ie right hook, you tend
    to miss the fact that it's hunting. For what it's worth if I use both cameras at a shot there is no discernible difference without pixel peeping.
    If anything you should be much better off than me with 21 Mb files . Must admit the 16-55 lens is one I didn't go for as all my other lenses
    have an excellent stabilizer which I realize I depend on, only when I use some of my old lenses in low light. In cases like you describe
    I will be looking to see how well her mascara's been applied so if I can get this with an xt1 you will certainly get the results you want from the
    Fuji once it's sorted. There are a few sites giving advice on which settings to beware of like noise reduction (turn it off) etc etc.
    Just out of interest if you can get hold of a Fuji 50-150 f2.8 to try for the same exercise ie models in low light I think you may be
    happier with the results that would be my lens for this type of a shoot.
    Hope this may help.
    JJ
     
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  11. cathy

    cathy Member

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    Is anyone out there? I'm at another fashion show and feel I have done all that was suggested here but still getting awful results
     
  12. cathy

    cathy Member

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    That last post was a test to see if I'm signed in on my phone. Here's the situation: My camera light meter wants to put me up into Iso 6400 or more but it's way too grainy for me so I started reducing the exposure compensation to lower the ISO. I'm also wanting a faster shutter speed. Even at -3 exposure compensation I still can't get the fast shutter speed I'm looking for without raising the ISO which I can't do (don't want to.) I'm at 2000 iso and the grain is horrible. No one else seems to complain about grain so I don't understand why I am having such problems.

    I'm looking at a few shots to give examples and I see settings like 1/170 sec f5.6. Iso 2000 -2 2/3 exposure compensation I've never used such crazy settings and all the professional runway photographers with their Nikons and Canons I'm talking to about this look at me like I'm crazy They're shooting at around 1/500 sec at 2000 iso with no exposure compensation. There doesn't seem to be any way I could get to 1/500 sec If can't handle the grain at 2000 iso and I am already where I am with exposure compensation.
    Am I making a mistake somewhere??? I originally thought my shots looked horrible because the shutter speed was too slow or depth of field too shallow but according to the photographers I'm showing what I am shooting it's grain that making my shots look so soft.

    I'm at a higher level so no shooting up at the models as previous discussed here. I've upped my shutter speed and DOF as best I can but my shots look as bad or worse than what I have previously posted here.

    Does any of what I am saying makes sense ? I have another full day of shitty shots ahead of me unless there's something more I can do. I'd appreciate your advice. Thanks a lot!
     
  13. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

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    Seems to me like you are putting yourself under pressure by only testing in a live event.
    You must be able to replicate a similar setting elsewhere and do some testing at a slower pace.

    Do you have an incident light meter? Find out what an incident reading is for the runway floor. Use this to replicate in your test settings.

    Also I suggest that you read the exposure settings of your Canon and replicate them to the Fuji but shoot in Manual exposure mode on the Fuji. I think you will find that your problem is the way you are metering. I did this for my Fuji XT1 and X-T2 testing against my Nikons.
     
  14. cathy

    cathy Member

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    Unfortunately I sold my Canon a year ago or I'd be using it right now.
     
  15. cathy

    cathy Member

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    jknights isn't what I am saying basically the same as what you are suggesting? The photographers shooting with Canon are telling me their settings and there's no way I can replicate them
     
  16. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

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    Oh dear. No fall back test position.

    That seems odd. Maybe you have a camera problem after all.
    I can get similar results for my flamenco shoots which must be less well lit (ISO6400, 1/100-1/160 at f4), than your runway shoots. My Nikons are about 2/3 stop more sensitive than Fuji in these conditions to get same exposure levels so I use ISO3200 rather than 6400 I use on the Fujis.
    I also use single point AF rather than prefocus and get 80-90% sharp images with many of them pin sharp (50-60%). The success rate is a little less than my Nikons where in a shoot of 600+ images from two/three cameras I may get 15-30 that get binned for unsharpness. The rest that I bin are for bad composition 50-80. The rest I keep and keyword, score, with best 20-50 going to the customer for publicity material in posters, flyers and website.
     
  17. dem

    dem Premium Member

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    There is an over 4 stops difference between yours and other people's settings. Were they also using f/5.6? Do you have any filters on your lens?
     
  18. bobbyzfx

    bobbyzfx Premium Member

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    There is EVF in your camera. Use that. Or meter the light with hand held meter. Why need for EC? Why not shoot manual. Why care about what settings other folks are using. To me it seems you aren't experienced shooting in indoors lighting. I would spend more time learning that and your camera. Sorry to be harsh.

    I just shot a few indoors events at my work with 50-140mm f2.8 with older XT1. It is not as good as my 5dmk3/70-200mm f2.8 but almost there. Folks saying metering is different between canon, nikon, Fuji, I don't buy. They are all pretty close. Yes I have done side by side tests.
     
    Ole likes this.
  19. cathy

    cathy Member

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    It's true I don't shoot a lot indoors but I have over 15 years experience with low light digital shooting. What's the difference? I'm using EVF and have gotten to know the camera pretty well. I'm only interested in other's settings because I was trying to make sure that I was using a fast enough shutter speed etc for fashion so want to know what settings the pros use
     
  20. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

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    This is a resolvable situation but we are being methodical at all.
    To take this forward you (cathy) need to list each and every setting on the camera.
    You are giving us part information and we are guessing solutions. I am confident that if I was to sit for 20-30mins with you then this would be resolved. Either that or you have a faulty camera.

    You have had two issues.
    Exposure and Focus problems. These are fundamentals. Without these being right the images you get will always be less than great.

    I suggest that you download a copy of Macmodus X-T2 settings spreadsheet and print them out and then go through and write up what your camera settings are currently.
    Then list these out in a post with a text file attachment and we can try to debug.
     

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