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Fashion show shot with X-T2 not nearly as sharp as 5DIII. What to do?

Discussion in 'X-T2, X-T1, X-T20, X-T10' started by cathy, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. cathy

    cathy Member

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    I very much appreciate everyone who is trying to help. I am happy to share something other than a screen shot but there must be an easier way to do this than putting images that are already on my hard drive back onto a memory card to put back into the camera to process.
    Can't I just share a .jpeg from my hard drive? I shot raw + JPEG. Wouldn't it be processed correctly if I am not doing anything to it in Lightroom?
     
  2. jecottrell

    jecottrell Member

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    Just post some of your RAF files on Dropbox or something for folks to download and look at. The first thing that needs to be examined are the raw files.

    No need to go back and forth from the camera.
     
    dem likes this.
  3. bobbyzfx

    bobbyzfx Premium Member

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    ^^ Dumb question, why need for a RAW files?
     
  4. Greg_E

    Greg_E Premium Member

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    In the newest set of samples, the lower iso image shows what looks like motion blur on the sash. The higher iso still looks like it is missing focus by a few inches. I'm still wondering if it is focus shift when the lens stops down.,I don't own this lens, can't say for certain.

    What I can say for certain is that I would be trying a tripod and completely motionless object to make sure things are working correctly.
     
  5. cathy

    cathy Member

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    I have three OLD tripods sitting in my garage but I don't think I have any way to use them with this camera. Since the camera is new and under warranty I may as well just send it to Fuji
     
  6. cathy

    cathy Member

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  7. jecottrell

    jecottrell Member

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    The raw files are the basic data. Being able to look at that will eliminate one variable from the equation... jpg processing.

    At least one of them should have the standard 1/4-20 male threaded stud to connect to the bottom of the X-T2.

    Without a known problem and a coherent explanation of that problem for the service folks, you are incredibly unlikely to receive any satisfaction from Fuji service based upon previous experiences posted on the web.

    The goal is to get the unmodified files into the hands of the folks that are willing and able to help you. I don't believe you can post a .RAF file here.
     
  8. GregWard

    GregWard Premium Member

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    I suggested (quite a while back) that OP did some basic tests of camera and lens just to eliminate one or the other being at fault. I'm not sure whether or not that has happened yet? But, if not, that's a clear first step for me. If there IS an issue (with either/both) then you are clearly right - a specific test/identified error is much more likley to get a useful response from Fuji.

    What we know so far is that the images are not as good as they probably should be BUT that's when a newcomer to this particular camera system is shooting in tricky circumstances. For me the critical three words here are eliminate, eliminate and eliminate! Meaning a well thought through process of eliminating possible causes of the problem one by one. Here the original issues might have been caused by:

    - a faulty camera
    - a faulty lens
    - possibly some factor to do with the processing
    - user error/experience

    So I would strongly recommend working through that list eliminating (or not) each as a possible cause.
     
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  9. howlindawg

    howlindawg Well-Known Member

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    Yes - any file straight from the camera will allow us to see exactly what the camera is producing.
     
  10. jecottrell

    jecottrell Member

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    No, you want to see what the sensor is producing. If you see a jpg at 100% and it is crap, you still can't determine whether the OP's camera jpg processing settings are causing the problem. Always start with the most reliable data possible.
     
  11. cathy

    cathy Member

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    Sigh... can someone please provide a few (simple) suggestions as to how I can share files if I am not able to upload them here?
     
  12. johant

    johant Premium Member

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    wetransfer.com/
     
  13. jecottrell

    jecottrell Member

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    Please login or register to view links
     
  14. cathy

    cathy Member

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    I'm very sorry, but for now...to save both my time and yours, this is the only shot I'm posting. The camera and lens in a box on their way to Fuji!
    I have been trouble shooting with this camera since I received it. Ten pages here are just the tip of the iceberg. I've had enough.
    I'm more than happy to work on whatever I am doing wrong but at this point I first need to rule out any issues with the equipment.
    I spoke to Fuji customer service about all the suggestions made here to shoot walls with a tripod, etc and they said that's THEIR job. I'm more than happy to let them do it.
    Let's see what they find, if anything and proceed from there.
    Thanks for all your suggestions and support.

    fuji.jpg
     
  15. jecottrell

    jecottrell Member

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    I'm not sure why you'll invest ~$30 in shipping and weeks without your camera to have Fuji tell you there isn't anything wrong.

    If you'd make the effort and invest 5 minutes to print a focus/depth of field test sheet, set the "release/focus priority" settings correctly and take a couple of images, I think you could see that your camera is perfectly capable of capturing sharp images.


    This is, with 99% certainty, the source of your problem:

    With that option selected, your camera will capture images whether focus is acquired or not... in your case, not.
     
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  16. ToneXA1

    ToneXA1 Well-Known Member

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    If this is OK for Cathy it must be OK also for the rest of us. Yes, it will take some time and there are alternatives, but this is an interesting case and I am very much looking forward that Cathy then duly reports the outcome of the test at Fuji.
     
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  17. howlindawg

    howlindawg Well-Known Member

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    Do keep us informed on your progress with Fuji please Cathy.
    It will be interesting to see what they find.
     
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  18. GregWard

    GregWard Premium Member

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    I beg to disagree. You're saying that there's a problem with the camera or lens but yet you yourself have made it very clear you fully accept it might be your fault. To be honest there was never any reason to overcomplicate this. I don't understand your apparent reluctance to run some very simple tests (in ideal circumstances) to confirm whether or not the camera and lens are capable of getting sharp results.
     
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  19. supenakrisnadi

    supenakrisnadi New Member

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    I'm following at this thread, and if in exactly same lighting condition other people able to get iso 800-1000 while you are struggling with 3200-6400 at f/2.8 definitely their is something wrong with your camera. I know that we are using still camera lens instead of video lens which will have T aperture which will be exactly the same in any camera body used. However the differences will not as great as you mentioned.

    I agree with others that you better test out your camera set in other contitioned environment first before using it on a live event like this. Other way to do simple test is go to a camera shop, asking another X-T2 with XF16-55mm lens and compare the result from both camera sets.

    I had used my X-T10 with XF16-55 and XF90 in a studio room to cover a music band. It was low light situation, but still got pretty sharp images with the aperture wide open at ISO 6400. Everybody praise the low noise in the images and surprise with the result came from ISO 6400.

    I only turn NR to +1 when I use iso higher than 6400. I like my images to be tackle sharp, so most of the time I set the sharpness to +2. In situation that I don't need to refocus all the time, pretty much like the situation of your fashion show, I will use manual focus, manual aperture and manual speed. Then I will put my concern only on compositions and timing.

    Hope you find out what the root of your problems is soon.
     
  20. cathy

    cathy Member

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    Early on it was recommended that I change the Release/focus priority settings WHICH I DID even though some disagreed with the suggestion. I have been shooting with AFS priority FOCUS/ AFC priority RELEASE using mostly AFS and it has not helped.
    I'm assuming this is because the softness is not due to AF locking on the subject but rather the shutter speed being to slow, aperture too shallow, etc which is a result of the fact that I can't get good enough settings without going into extremely high ISO
    If I have problems like this with equipment under warranty there's no way I can sit and play with it on my own while the clock ticks on my warranty. I need to know FOR SURE that nothing is wrong with the camera/lens and if it means I spend a few dollars on shipping so be it.
     

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