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From a recent visit to San Diego. Heavily used the 10-24 and the exposure bracketing function.
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More on my Please login or register to view links. The expression on the guy's face grabbed my attention.
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I have been using fujifilm x cameras for a few years now. My 1st was an X-Pro1 which got changed to an XT1 and now a new X-T2. I really like shooting with my X-T2 with the 27mm pancake but I also have the 16mm and 35mm. We are also purchasing the new GFX 50 to change over from our Leaf AFi7 system. Look forward shooting with the GFX soon…
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I was going to take a half day on Thursday to visit my local photo store because they are hosting a Fuji Demo day with the introduction of the newest cameras and lenses. But, our weather here in Portland has been very cold and there's talk of snow and ice for Tuesday thru Wednesday.
I had planned to drive and now I think I may have to pass because I'm a wimp about driving icy roads. Darn IT!
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Some pictures from a cruise I took with my family last year. These are some statues we saw...
Athens - Running Slate-Statue.jpg
"The Running Man" in Athens, Greece. Made of Iron and glass, it is almost 30 feet tall.
Cartagena To Victims Of Terrorism statue.jpg

Large bronze statue in Cartagena entitled "To Victims Of Terrorism" Province of Murcia, Southeastern Spain

Romulus and Remus.jpg
Romulus and Remus statue in Rome. Said to be raised by a Wolf, they went on to found the city of Rome.
Santa Margherita Ligure-Statue.jpg
Statue of the Madonna in the harbour of Santa Margherita in Italy.
More to come soon…
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i was looking at flickr today...specifically checking my albums with the 2 35mm lenses to see if i could tell a difference between them.
can't say i saw all much difference.
now i thought i'd look for some reviews of both and possibly where they are compared side by side.
anyone know of any such threads somewhere?…
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Gentleman from Shaniko, OR. Noticed Fuji Eterna LUT in CC 2018 so started from there to grade the image.
X-Pro2 35mm f/8.0 1/250s 200 ISO 0.0 EV
Sometimes I can see the exif, others not. Any ideas? Exported using CC 2018
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I just purchased an X-T2. It's current firmware format is version 1.10. Do I have to sequentially upgrade to get to version 3.00 or will I get all the previous upgrades by just downloading version 3.00? Thanks for your help…
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I asked this question over at DPR and figured I just check here also.
The switch on my X-T2 is very soft with no real positive click in the on or off position. There is a slight click but nothing like on my E2.
Just wondering how other users cameras are…
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Some competition over a particularly good bit of sea (screenshot, file size too large to upload)
Screen Shot 2018-02-20 at 19.54.27.png
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I am new here. Glad to join the community!
There’s a Adobe Illustrator file that I’ve been working on for a month, most of which was written on Asus 2015 Model Laptop on Windows 8. However, after the Windows 10 update, I suddenly can’t open it anymore. It gives the following message, The file cannot be read.
Has anyone got this error? Thanks…
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So I have auto ISO on, auto shutter speed, and f set manually to f5.6. Shooting through my bedroom window into a very bright snowy day. The camera sets the ISO to 3200 which is crazy, why such a high setting…
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Hello X-T2 friends. I don't know how to solve an issue I'm having with my X-T2. I have gone into the menu settings and checked the box to show my histogram. It shows when I look through the viewfinder, however, if I want to take a photo using the display all I see are my settings and the histogram. If I push the shutter and take a photo while all the information is visible, hit replay...I see the image...but, without any information. This is weird. How do I see the photo, take it and then view the histogram while using the display? I really enjoy framing and shooting photos at waist level, I would like to see the histogram while shooting this way. Any help is greatly appreciated…
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at a nearby historical site..
Foe some reason EXIF did not follow; X-T1, 56mm/1.2 F/2 1/250sec, ISO-800 Both of which I no longer own - more dust than images.
Thanks for looking,
Antique Doll-1.jpg
Antique Doll-2.jpg
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The wildebeest in the water was struggling.
"Croc's got it" said our guide.
The other wildebeest continued crossing – the odds of survival had just tipped in their favour.
The crocodile's plan was to tire out the wildebeest, and then to drown it. The wildebeest's only hope of escape was to drag the croc to the shore of the river, where the croc might release its grip.
According to my exif data, the struggle lasted almost 40 minutes. The wildebeest did get free, but, fatally, a long way from the shore. Perhaps the croc let go of the leg in order to move in for the kill.
The exhausted wildebeest turned to face its tormentor. The croc lunged, and missed. It lunged again, and took a death grip. It dragged the wildebeest under the water and, a few seconds later, the struggle was over. The crocodile swam away with its prize.
The rest of the herd finished crossing, and grazed peacefully on the other side.
In the Land Cruiser, we fell silent, even our experienced guide. Watching an animal lose its life after a long struggle arouses complex emotions, perhaps more so when the animal is a mammal and the predator a prehistoric reptile.
X-T2 and 100-400 at 400. I was a long way from the action, so these images are heavily cropped.
Wildebeest lovers should look away now…
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The Durango Silverton Narrow Gauge Train Depot in winter. Hand held 5 shots with the 16mm f/1.4 WR lens. Processed in PSCC and cropped to 2.5:1 ratio. SOOTC…
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Hi I’m looking for advice. I went to buy a X-T20 with the 18-55 f2.8/4 and decided I didn’t want one but a XE3 instead. It the ergonomics felt a lot better and surprisingly more compact where on paper there’s not much in it. But I now have a lens dilemma
a. Buy with 18-50
b. Buy with 23 and buy sh 18mm
b save for 14mm with either of the above kits
I’m also getting a XC 55-220 as a telephoto, I rarely use the but good for the holidays
ive I just sold my Pentax gear to down size which included a 10-20 zoom so worried about going prime.
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Just a simple candid street style snap taken at Folkestone Kent UK of a guy with his guitar doing a bit of street playing. The guitar the guy is playing is a Gibson ES-347.
I'm also working on a personal project called Faceless and this will be one of the shots included.
X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/100th @ F4, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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Hi all-
New to posting on this forum.
Been using Fuji X for about a year. Just got my new (used, but new to me) 100-400 lens. Trying it out at my mother-in-law's house. This image taken from 12 feet away, handheld, ISO3200 around 30th second at F8.
Altamont NY Myrtle Murray BW 5 February 2018-X2.jpg
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Have an X-T2 and still learning with it. This forum, YouTube and of course the manual have been great help. I will be going on a Disney cruise with my family in late June with stops in Rome, Pompeii and the French coast. I have the 18-55 and want to get a second lens.
While I will eventually get the 55-200 I am thinking I would be better off with a wide for this trip, either the 10-24 or 14. While on excursions I should have no problems with the slower 10-24. Not so sure about shots on board where it could be darker. While considering this trip for the lens I am also thinking which would be best long term too.
Anyone do a similar cruise and if so, which lens would you suggest?…
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A December bought x-t20 with original box etc and expert shield screen protector. Black if it makes any difference. Two superficial squiggly scratches on base. Have done the ebay sold-listings check but results are quite variable and not clear what differences are attributable to. Would appreciate any thoughts here for what people would expect to pay. Thanks in advance…
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Here are some from Edmonton, Alberta.
1 Edmonton P1020714.jpg
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X-T2 100-400mm 1/750 F9 iso 500
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A few leaks but some fraud too...
Basically the great K-1 is getting the accelerator unit out of the k-70/KP.
So the effect is a higher iso rating
The Pixel Shift feature is also updating and THAT will be interesting.
Otherwise,same old/same old…
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I've owned all kinds of cameras and lenses, just bought a used X T1 with the 35 mm f2 WR lens. This is my first experience with a "vented" lens hood. Do the vents actually serve a purpose or are they purely decorative?…
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X100F shots in the Ten Top restaurant in Norfolk, VA.
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Harwood at Kylde Warren Park.
(spelling corrected)
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Shot with a FujiFilm X-T1 some pictures with the Samyang 12mm F2 others with Fuji XF 16mm F1.4.
The county has ordered these domes to be demolished so their time is limited.
Featured on Ghost Adventures Season 12 with claims of Satanic worship and other paranormal activity. You do your own research and make up your mind about that. :)
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This could easily go in the Adapted Lenses forum, but as it is exclusively for video purposes, I decided to post here.
Whilst I would love to get the two MK cine zooms, US$8k is rather over the budget, especially as I'll just HAVE to get an H1. :)
So, I'm considering a Metabones Speed Booster and some old mechanical lenses for video. Using an adaptor gives clickless aperture control and with a speed booster I get an extra f-stop as well as staying at the wider end of the focal length, by not having the 1.5x multiplier. (or you can consider a 1/1.5 divider, so a 35mm lens becomes 23mm and gains an f-stop).
SO, the big questions are:

  1. How wide focal length works well with Metabones Speed Booster?

  2. Which lens fitting should I choose. (I have 1 Nikon lens already and a non-speed booster Klippan Nikon/Fuji adaptor

  3. Should I just consider a Rokinon/Samyang cine lens instead?

Of course the other question is "Is all this worth the effort?" considering the H1 offers a linear focus by wire option, which will allow repeated focus pulls (but still clicked aperture)…
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Fujifilm S3 Pro, Tokina 100-300, f4 ISO 1600, 1/750 @ F6.7
Blue Jay.JPG
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Well, I'm new to portraits but even newer to sports photography. So much to keep in mind with both but, with the latter, my oh my, anticipating where the action will be, composing on that guess, nailing your focus and exposure, and getting lucky by not capturing contorted faces, tongues sticking out, spectators with gaping maws or picking their noses, and, and, and. I thought this one had a nice arc, clearly demonstrated the player's number, and had a decent background. No face, of course, but that was the point of the picture...a beautiful receive/return from a very tricky position. Oh, and full disclosure, the ball is photoshopped; it was all the way in the corner of the frame.
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Child and legitimatey adoring Great Grandmother:
T1171817-2 (2017_12_26 19_16_47 UTC).jpg
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some from Please login or register to view links about a concert of this cool band.
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I've just seen a Fuji lens for sale which has obviously been dropped. I was thinking of putting in a cheeky offer for it and then paying for Fuji UK to repair it. There's a fair bit of work needed, the rear element is scratched and the black plastic surround is split. The filter screw has a couple of dings and the lens is obviously decentred. Is this something Fuji would be prepared to fix or would they just return it as beyond economic repair? I'd be grateful for any first hand information anyone has of how much work they would be prepared to do to it before they wrote it off…
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I recently got my X-T20 w/ 18-55 and am thinking of how to build my lens set. I would like to cover all of wide, normal, and portrait lenses. No need for telephoto. But my question to you is, would you rather have (for example) a 4-lens set with lenses that are all under $500 used (ie. f2 lens trio and others), or 2 of those lenses plus 1 nice one? (Ie. 16mm f1.4, 23mm f1.4, 35mm f1.4, 56mm 1.2, 90mm f2)
My options are looking a little something like:
1) 16mm f1.4, 35mm f2, 50mm f2
2) Rokinon 12mm f2, 23mm f1.4, 50mm f2
3) 18mm f2, 35mm f2, 56mm f1.2
Or I could just an extra lens to cover it all and cost the same - Rokinon 12mm f2, 23mm f2, 35mm f2, 50mm f2.
What do you guys think? Quality over quantity?…
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Just a simple snap taken at Folkestone Kent UK of the Outer Harbour area and the Old Fish Market.
X-T2, 35mm F1.4 Lens, 1/1100th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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Just purchased my X-T20 with 18-55 f2.8-4mm lens and started shooting. Started with auto settings on a local carnibal. The shots look great from a distance, but when I zoom into them, zero detail and tons of noise. I investitated my initial shots indoors, same thing. Shot some portraits, same thing. Upgraded latest firmware, tried flash, manual, everything.
I have some photos here:
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I am not a pro, but with my previous mirrorless had no problem take clear shots right out of the box. Am I doing something wrong or is the camera defective in some way?…