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Portal

Just returned from two weeks in central Europe.
X-T20 and 55-200mm
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Picked up an XF 50-140 just over a week ago and haven't had a chance to use it, until this little fella came into the garden on Saturday.
I can't believe how sharp this is, wide open at full zoom....
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Am I a strange character for finding myself in the following situation very often?
Vacation, travel to a great location, breakfast(late ), then head off to see the sights ( Noon).
Nice sights, Now I want to shoot environmental portraits. Unfortunately it is Noon - in Summer!!
No - forget portraits - come back at 7PM ( golden hour) - if family will oblige.
Or.
Carry a X70 ( or X100) - shoot at 1/2000 , f5.6 or f4. Flash. Shoot your loved ones from about 4 feet away. Sun behind them or to the side so they are not squinting into the sun.
Great shot. No dark faces - nicely balanced with the sun providing a hairlight for a 3D effect.
Put camera back in jeans.
Yes - you need a leaf shutter to do that. I dont understand why the X70 has been discontinued. I dont understand why leaf shutters are not properly marketed.
I dont need fancy lenses. I dont need rapidfire continuous shooting. Dont much care about "weather sealing", dont really need a f 1.4 lens ( for what?). But - I require a leaf shutter.
You cannot shoot nice environmental portraits at noon in summer -with focal plane shutters- with large , heavy expensive equipment -and fancy lenses - unless you carry a power source and large powerful flashes that can overpower the sun at f16 - which is where you will be shooting to keep the shutter at sync speed of 1/200.
And - do you really want to lug 10 -15 pounds of equipment and look like a wedding photographer - Just to be able to take a nice picture of your family at noon in summer in a nice location? Not me!
What am I missing? maybe other families oblige their photographers by never going out at Noon-5 PM?…
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X-Pro1, 18-55mm, June 2018
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Yesterday I was shooting at an event. I was using all 3 of my lenses and at one point I switched to my 23mm lens. The viewfinder video started to flash black then white and a message showed in the middle of the screen telling me to shut the camera off and then back on. I did that maybe 10 times, no difference. Took the lens off and back on several times to make sure the contacts are not the issue. I switched all modes on and off and the flickering only stopped when I switched to manual focus but the message stayed. So I concluded that maybe there is something wrong with focusing motor. I switched to the two other lenses I had and everything was working. So it must be the 23mm lens. Today with calm nerves, I connected the 23mm lens back to the camera, but this time I also connected the AC power supply to allow the camera to draw as much current as it needs. Turned the camera on and…: it is working as if nothing happened!!!
I am confused. Is this what I should expect from this lens from now on? Or is there something wrong and I should claim warranty. If I send the lens in as is, they are going to say: unable to duplicate the problem.
I don’t know what to do…
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Fuji X-T2, 23mm f/1.4
This large mural in the Mission District of San Francisco strikes me as being especially timely, considering what is happening on the southern border of the U.S. The Mission District is a largely Latino neighborhood and the many murals displayed there can be highly political.
Mural 1 TBsent.jpg
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I have had the X-H1 for a bit and have concluded that with ISO Dial at A and Shutter Dial at A, this is the best point and shoot camera I have ever had.
I own too much Nikon gear and the X-H1 was recommended to me. I am using the 16mm WR f/1.4 lens and have it in my shoulder bag all the time. It seems whatever the lens, there is no reason to manually stray from the A settings on both dials.
Am I crazy. Never shot using Auto settings in my life…
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Last night - clear and warm in Paris - and the moon sat on top of the Eiffel Tower.
XP1A8938.jpg
xpro1 iso6400 500th f3.2 18/55mm @ 40mm…
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It's hayin' season around these parts now. This is the view from the Helderberg Escarpment which rises about 800 feet over the Mohawk and Hudson Valley.
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Both made with the X-T1 and 55-200…
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For those who do not make their own color profiles, here's one I'd like to offer. Even for non X-T2 users and other lenses, this profile might just sit in your row to check out on, but it's basically tuned on X-T2 and XF35F1.4.
Being relatively new to photography and post processing I was seriously shocked about the importance of having a good Color Profile.
'Particular effects' profiles was not the goal here, just having a good head start with best colors cut the PP time (very) considerably, you would still have to decide white balance though.
My gravity is C1 but see lower for Adobe.
Before, in Capture One I used the profile named:
""Fujifilm FinePix X-T2 Generic"" for all my X-T2 pics.
This profile comes with the software (you might need to chose SHOW ALL first to get to that profile name).
I felt set and secure with that profile in the best possible way. Not so.
In C1 if you just roll over other profiles you see the results immediately in full on preview.
Have been using Lumariver Profile Designer and a color checker card to make this profile, since then my post processing times have been halved to say the least.
I found the profile works in any lighting condition when there is natural light, sun or shadow. Haven't checked out other light sources so far.
Important: in Capture One this profile is constituted especially for a LINEAR CURVE, so choose that Curve (right under ICC profile) to start with! Doing that you'll notice it's not as flat as usual, it will be alive.
Playing with parameters during the making of the profile leads to slightly different profiles,
I made a bunch and found this one a winning contender... so far.
All on X-T2, I made also profiles for other lenses and saw only a slight but noticeable difference, I'm sure this profile can be used for other lenses too all the while a dedicated profile might add something.
For sure the base characteristics of TX2 are covered with this profile very well, way better than the C1-default-for-X-T2 imho. Can't speak of testing it on pics from other bodies.
For convenience I made also an Adobe dcp version for PS and LR, it's in the same attachment, but since I hardly use those progs I only saw briefly yet positively a result.
Please login or register to view links, I found the results more speaking in C1 than same profile (dcp version) under Adobe.
There are a ton of youtubes about profiles in Adobe, but found just and only 1 about making your own in Capture o_One. For color-card correcting C1 you need an extra Profiler software to make it work, in Adobe everything is streamlined and plug-inned much more easily.
There's copyright inside the profile, other specifics are in the readme's, try it and offer some feedback if you wish.
With regards, FujiMongol…
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There's a backstory here [​IMG]
I am from Cape Town, the very furthest bottom tip of the African continent.
My daughter and I went to Scandinavia for 3.5 weeks and on the schedule was attending the Danish Air Show at Aalborg.
HUGE excitement for me! But due to weight restrictions, I did not take my usual Nikon gear with nice big
lenses - instead just packed the Fuji system for happy snaps.
We hit Oslo in 32 deg C and the heatwave continued throughout our trip - hottest temperatures on record,
in all history for the region. TRUE story.
Came the day of the airshow : RAIN RAIN RAIN.
So, I present you with great pride [​IMG] ... The Spanish Air Force Typhoon completing its display.
FUJX6215-IreneMcC.jpg
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How do the fuji 50-140 and 55-200 compare to zooms from other systems?
I used the oly 40-150 2.8 and that thing is sharp. But I also tried the nikon 70-300 and 55-200, and all I can say is that price correlates with quality.
I tried the fuji 55-200 in the past but wasn't impressed. Maybe I had a bad copy? But it is priced on the more consumer side too. I've seen people rave about it on the forum.
I'm considering switching to fuji completely, as I've been hybrid with my systems and have used m43 for telephoto…
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X-H1 | XF100-400
XF2xTC
In the second post of this topic more photos!
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I don't have the Fuji macro lens because I don't do enough macro work to justify the expense. Instead I use a Tamron 90mm Adaptall lens with a K&F adaptor. Works well albeit manual focus and minimal EXIF data.
Just playing around this morning and I tried my 1.4 TC on the combo. Seems to work well so in theory I can extend the lens from 90mm to 126mm.
I also have a 2xTC for the Tamron which in theory would give me 252mm with the Fuji TC.
Has any body else tried this sort of thing and are there any drawbacks?…
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Ive already bought and sold and bought this camera, and right now I can’t quite decide whether I’m keeping this one! The xe1 rendering gives what I desire in that regard, but the x100 has such a special appeal. So gorgeous, so tactile. Gah!
6B28F6E0-1625-4E60-B714-D7D40D77BA8C.jpeg
FFC5EDA9-EAD6-4845-BACF-B8ED64B1BBCA.jpeg
Hi All
My joystick button on x100f got a little mushy, when pressing it to centre focus it'll do a soft angular click and not centre my focal point, idk if it something i should put up with as it doesn't happen a lot but when it does for the price of the camera it is a little annoying.
Anyone else have same?
cheers
tony…
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I need a nice bokeh in this photo- Fujinon 35 f 1,4 will be a good choice for a similar composition. Thanks!
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18.jpg
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Hi,
I'm Cees van Miert living in the Netherlands and since a week owner of the Fuji X-T20.
I used to shoot with a Pentax K5 which is much bigger and heavier.
Already shoot some first pictures with the Fuji and although I still have to get used to the camera, I like it a lot.
I hope to show some serious pictures here in the near future.
Cees…
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Fuji x-T2, 18-55mm
Photos taken during a 10 mile hike through Tomales Point State Park, located in the Point Reyes National Seashore, California.
Image #1: Three young tule elk posing for me as I hiked on by. Tule elk are a species of elk found only in California. They nearly went extinct and the entire species was determined to be down to a single breeding pair in the 19th century. They were designated a protective species and they now number approximately 4,000.
Image #2: Hiking trail through Tomales Point State Park with blooming wild radish and bright yellow bush lupine approximately 5’ tall.
Tomales Pt 1.jpg
Tomales Pt 2.jpg
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So finally I got me an X-E3 for those cases when I don't want to carry the X-T2 with the bigger lenses. With the 23mm/f2, this thing is tinny!
I'd like to put it into some case/pouch and then throw it into my bag of the day. I'm thinking with the 23mm but maybe sometimes with the 10-24mm. Any suggestions?
thanks…
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The last time I posted images here using my Konica 52 1.8, let's just say some gear snobs took exception with someone "wasting time" on such a cheap lens.
So I largely stopped using it, instead choosing to use my (continually frustrating to focus) 50 1.4 instead.
In the past month I dusted it back off and started taking it to gigs again and immediately remembered why I had loved it so much originally. Who cares if you can score one for $10 on the bay? If you can, you should!
So let the hate begin, lol.
Hand Focuswm.jpg
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Hello how are you?
I am new in the medium format and I acquired this lens for product photography but I notice that it is not as macro as I thought and I am somewhat disappointed, I am doing some pictures of rings and I can not approach as I would like, is it normal in this lens? or will I be doing something wrong? I leave a sample photo where I can approach without losing focus. before I worked with full frame in canon and I used the lens 100mm 2.8 macro and I was great because the rings were perfectly in the frame and could even get closer.
I would appreciate any information
Greetings from Colombia
Sorry my bad english
prueba.jpg
A stairway to heaven..
untitled (3 of 8)-2-Edit.jpg
No prize for guessing which lens, ;)
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Our wonderful historic river town is periodically at the mercy of the water gods. The water level has risen dramatically twice already this year. It makes for some dramatic images, but seeing the river front disappear under water is still disturbing. My wife and I took a stroll after dinner two nights ago, and this is some of what we saw:
[​IMG]
[​IMG]
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the remote camera app cannot find the Wi-Fi on my X-T2. Wondering if it has anything to do with the recent upgrades. Can someone walk me through a way to problem solve this?
Thanks,
George…
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so, i i really like the fuji 60...will i like the 80 even more?…
I am trying to use a Zacuto EVF Pro with my X-H1.
The monitor works when the X-H1 menu setting:
HDMI OUTPUT INFO DISPLAY = OFF
but the EVF display is not mirroring the camera LCD.
When I change this to ON, the EVF displays "Unrecognized video format 1080p60.
With this setting if OFF, the camera's LCD is mirrored on EVF while the camera is in the SET UP section of the X-H1's menu.
Is there a way to (internally or externally to the camera) to change the HDMI default output from 1080p60 to 1080p24/25/30? The camera CAN do this (as is evident by the SET UP mirroring)…
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When using Custom Settings on either a X-Prto1 or X-T2 does your software show what custom setting your camera was using?
I use ACDSee Photo Studio for Mac. For what I do in editing it suits me fine. Using as digital management I feel it is fantastic.
The issue that I am having is that the Custom Setting I am using on either of my cameras will not show up anywhere in my software program. Is anyone using custom settings that is shown in your software?
If anyone using ACDSee, either Mac or Win version, able to see custom settings somewhere in your program.
Thank you in advance for any assistance anyone can render…
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X-T20 and 18-55mm
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Hi
I non studio situations, using the camera in "portrait position" not necessarily for portrait photos, but indoors with very high ceilings, what techniques or equipment do you use to get the flash over the lens axis? i.e. no shadow.
I use a wireless transmitter and hold the flash above the lens, I have also used the Canon cable but is a bit cumbersome.
Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks…
I guess there is no parking (Fri-Sun), no standing anytime and no walking from any direction (see yellow walk signals). :)
XPR09281.jpg
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I'm thinking about replacing my "old" MacBook Pro Retina with a newer model. I've also just acquired Affinity Photo which supports the use of the touchbar, and now I am wondering if the touchbar is really more than a gimmick, especially for photo-editing with Affinity.
Any experiences you could share? Thanks in advance!…
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You probably also received a notice of this. It's the site to upload your warranty stuff, serial numbers, copies of invoices..
bought a lens as of late and wanted to join that data on 'connect' but for a fair bit of time this site Please login or register to view links does not respond anymore? A full blanco page is all I get.
Known issue? Is there a work around?
Edit: it seems the 'connect' site needs an appendix in the URL like '/en/index.php'
so the working full URL is 'Please login or register to view links'
Other appendixes work also like '/be-nl/' or '/nl/' or '/en/' but it needs one of these appendixes at least, it's just that Google could not find the right URL with a working correct appendix…
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Fuji X-H1 + Fringer adapter + Sigma Art 18-35mm f1.8
Works brilliantly with full AF plus aperture control via touchscreen.
But for stills, for the life of me cannot work out how to set aperture manually!
Tried setting it on the left rear pad button and the back dial but no joy on this or any lens.
I’m keen to hear from anyone with an X-H1 and any lens without manual aperture ring.
Cheers!…
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Often fancied having a closer look at the heavens around us, and capturing my findings on camera.
Anybody on here into Astral photography?
Would this be a good starting telescope, could the X-T2 be attached to it easily for good results?
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