Even though my current Dell Monitor was only 3 years old the difference with the BenQ SW2700PT is phenomenal to my eyes and being able to see the ARGB color is also quite nice. Price was not too bad at around 600 usd. So if things just don't seem sharp and in proper tone you might try a new monitor of this type…
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Will a pre-AI Nikkor lens adapted for X mount provide aperture priority metering? Thanks…
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pretty sure that i read in the X-T20 manual that the camera can show one colour (usually the subject) and leave the rest b&w...but i cannot find that info again...can someone help me out? was that an hallucination?…
I had planned to shoot the solar eclipse using my XPro1 and a Canon FD f5.6 100-300mm zoom with a Sigma 2X teleconverter at the 300mm setting for an approximately 750mm equivalent telephoto lens. However, that combination would not focus properly at infinity.
I next tried a Nikon f4 200mm lens with a Nikon TC-1 2X teleconverter, for about 550mm equivalent setup. I was able to obtain sharp focus. It also appears I gained about a stop of light over the Canon/Sigma rig. The more compact Nikon/XP1 rig was easier to handle and I didn't have to worry about zoom creep, so that's the setup I'm going with on Monday.
With a solar filter on either lens, it is extremely difficult to find the sun with the XP1 LCD with the lens stopped down to shooting aperture unless the shutter speed is set at 1/60 or lower. Once I found the sun and got it centered, I reset the shutter speed to the correct setting.
The results for both tests are shown below.
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I'm shooting a scrimmage this evening, more of a test shoot to prepare for regular season games. I was wondering if any members have AF suggestions that work best for the sport, or at least a starting off point. I'll be using the 50-140mm and will post some samples of what I come up with later. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
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Hello you lovely people,
I currently use an unbranded canvas shoulder bag that basically cost me next to nothing (£15/$20) to avoid advertising the fact that if you mug me, well, you won't exactly be rich but you could certainly swap the contents for a couple of really decent nights out in your favourite watering hole.
What I'm looking for is somewhere I can order a replacement padded insert and some decent dividers (by which I mean sturdy/thick). Either somewhere that offers various sizes or a made to measure service would be great.
If anyone has any useful information or a hack that would enable me to create my own I'm willing to name my third born after you (please bear in mind though that my much better looking half is 55 and hasn't been made aware of this offer).
Looking forward to hearing from you all.
I took my X100F down to Emsworth Quay the other night as it was clear and no moon. I wasn't expecting to get much especially as there is quite a lot of light pollution from nearby Portsmouth but was pleasantly surprised with the results.
As an extra Saturn decided to photobomb the shot on the right hand side!
This is from a stack of 7 photos each @ 15s, f2.0, ISO1600. I used DeepSkyStacker then into Affinity for lots of trial and error adjustments and blending in the foreground from an original shot - just need to remember how to do this in the future!
A few more images in the replies. Thanks for looking
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It seems like I'm running into two weird issues that I have no idea how to fix. I've been going through the menu system and can't seem to find anything.
I used to set image review to 0.5 seconds. It will display on my EVF that allows me to evaluate the photos. It is not showing up anymore. I even set the Image Review to Continuous and no image display after I shoot. I want it to be displayed on the EVF so I don't take my eyes off.
After I shoot, when I look at the back of the LCD screen, I see the image and a "Press <Ok> Next". It stays there until I fire the next shot or press ok.
Anyone has encounter the same issue and resolved it?…
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The manual focus clutch is stuck in the back/manual focus position. I can't get it to move forward back into the fixed/auto focus position.
When the S/C/M focus selector on the front of my X-T1 is in the S mode it still auto-focuses the lens but I'd like to be able to have the clutch function as it should.
Anyone know of any reason why it's stuck or any solution. I live in a country where the only authorized Fuji repair location is 16 hours away and I'm not sure I'm comfortable using the postal service or a courier to send the lens - though it may be my only option.
Hoping to find a do-it-myself solution…
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It would be a TRIVIAL firmware update to apply a label to the SD cards when formatting in camera. PLEASE add this in the next firmware update.
E.g. on X-T2, after formatting the label for card in slot 1 should be X-T2D1, etc.
This is such a trivially easy addition, and would help many people that juggle cards from multiple bodies…
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Just purchased a license for Iridient's X-Transformer and was wondering if I could use Compressed RAW with it, without any issues, on my X-T2, or should I use Uncompressed RAW?
(Sorry if this has already been answered, but I couldn't find it anywhere)…
1. The view from our house
Lake-3-Pano-Edit-Edit by Ian, on Flickr
2. The view from the other side of the lake looking back towards our house
Sunset view from Fiastra over the lake by Ian, on Flickr
PodallaTramonto-47-Pano by Ian, on Flickr
4. A deliberately dark shot of some local villages
Sunset view over Colle towards Fiastra by Ian, on Flickr
5. And my favourite from the trip so far
Cicconi sunset 2 by Ian, on Flickr
I think all of these were with my XE1 and 50-230 zoom…
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So i have recently bought a Fuji X-E1 for the princely sum of £100 and been using some M42 lenses on it but just dropped some money on an XF18-55 f2.8-4
I was wanting a prime but i have a wedding to shoot so thought zoom would be a better option.
I want to focus back on my street photography and cant make up my mind on the right focal length to look at for primes.
Mainly i dont think i really know what length i like the most.
I came up with an idea though and want to see if anyone else has done similar things to see what focal length they prefer.
My plan is to go shooting with the 18-55 and then load them all into lightroom and search which focal lengths are most popular. This should give me an idea of what i should aim for? Right now i'm feeling the 23 1.4 or 35 1.4…
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Sorry I know this will have been covered but be blowed if I can find the answer.
Some contributors have a clickable link to their Flicker pictures, how is it done?
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So just joined and thought i would fill in a little about me.
I didn't realise this would be so long so here is a TLDR: bought Fuji, Love it
Or the longer version...
I'm Geoff, i run a somewhat successful photography 'business' called UrbanFreestyle and i live down here in Devon.
My photography journey has been a varied one starting when i was in school shooting with an Olympus OM-10 and rolling my own b/w film.
I then lost interest and stopped for a long time. I eventually got back into it focusing (excuse the pun) on street photography and became a fearcly Canon shooter. I then moved onto my passion for automotive and equine photography and thus changed my mind on what kit i wanted... I found i was shooting with teams like McLaren and Japspeed and felt my humble 350D wasn't suitable so i went through 350D, 5D2, 1D2, 1D3 etc so sampled a nice range as well as several of the L lenses including the 24-70 f2.8 and 100-400 'dustpump' Eventually i settled down with a 1Dmk3 and Sigma 'bigma' 50-500.... What a beast!!!
I started getting a few sponsors on board too so was blessed with a lovely Manfrotto carbonfibre and magnesium tripod, 3legged thing Mohawk ballhead and Sharkproof glass protection. By this stage i was struggling to keep true to who i was.
Again i moved kit and sold it all and moved over to Sony... the image quality blew me away. I was in awe of the shots i could get with the a6000 and 18-105G lens without needing flash, tripod etc. however....
I found i was shooting weddings for the money, car shows for the friends and equine for the publicity. It turned into not actually doing for myself.
I took a bit of a step back and started being more selective about what, where and when i shot. I moved back to revive my love for film and bought an Olympus Trip 35 from a charity shop.... I couldn't be happier...
Going back to film made me remember what it was all about for me. capturing that moment, not forcing it, just being in the moment with the people, not a photographer on the outside.
Whilst shooting film my Sony disapeared... i have no idea where it went, i lost it or it was stolen but just one day it was nowhere to be found :-( i was devastated as i was ready to move back to digital.
I don't earn masses of money so losing that was totally gutting and i thought i wouldn't be able to get anything like that again.
Luckily i found someone online selling a Fuji X-E1 online for £150, when i saw it i fell in love. I was straight on the phone and talking to the chap, we talked about what happened and without me asking he dropped the price to £100 as well as threw in some lens adapters so i could use some of my old M42 lenses i had collected from my Sony days.
I snapped it up and just love the colour rendering of the Fuji, something really classic and natural about it. Up until now i have only been shooting legacy m42 glass and today i bought the 18-55 f2.8-4 so cant wait to see what this can help me acheive!…
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On my Nikon bodies, there is a configuration option which I find really helpful: I am most of the time in matrix metering mode, however there are situations when I like to be able to instantly spot-meter the light under the selected AF point, then return to my default matrix metering mode. Nikon lets me do this by configuring a function button. I only have to press the button to switch the camera to spot-metering mode, and then release it to automatically return to matrix metering.
I have not so far found a way to do this with the X-Pro 2, would anyone more knowledgeable recommend a way to achieve this?
Many thanks in advance…
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I'm looking for a hood, will a Nikon screw in hood of 52mm fit?…
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Hi all! I have an image that I want to create, but need your help knowing how. I got the Fuji X-T2 a couple of months ago and am still not familiar with all of the functionality. Note that I have both an 18-135mm and 35mm f1.4 lens, but for this photo, I think I want to use the 35mm.
I am going hiking by myself tomorrow and want to capture a photo of me jumping into a lake from a rock with the focus on me (obviously haha). I will bring a tripod and set it up farther away from me on the lake's edge. I imagine the camera needs to be set on a 10 second timer and captured on the Fuji remote mobile app. Is there a way to capture multiple photos of the jump using the continuous option, and how do I set the camera to track the focus on me during the jump?
I'm sorry if that was a word jumble and hard to understand - I appreciate any guidance here. Thank you!…
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I just ordered the 16mm 1.4, but Im not a fan of the lens hood that comes with it. I was wondering if anyone here has purchased the JJC LH-XF16 lens hood? The Fuji brand version of it cost $65, so Im wondering if the after market version is on par?…
Let me say at the beginning that I'm a confirmed fanboy of Minolta MF lenses.
I have recently bought a 50mm MC Rokkor PG f/1.4 and a 35-70mm Macro both of which I love dearly.
I bought both from Japanese eBay sellers, in excellent condition [apart from the usual specks of dust] and both with front and rear caps and original lens hoods.
Both cost around $100 US.
So I regard both as excellent 'bang for a buck'.
And then my eyes turned to a 24mm focal length.
And here is where the value for dollar questions arose.
Looking at Minolta and Konica Hexanons, good copies seemed to range from $200 to $300+
I do have a Fuji 18-55mm and a 16-50mm [which I bought for under $200 secondhand and which I'm pretty fond of]
It would seem the only advantage I'd get from an older MF lens would be a faster aperture [typically f/2.8] and lose OIS, AF and greater flare resistance.
As I shoot predominately landscape at f/8+ I cant see the value in spending that $200+ on a MF lens.
I do like the older lenses for their build quality and focus control but most of all for their $ value but I cant really justify it in the case of the 24mm options.
So...am I making a fair assessment?…
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I'm sorry if this question has been answered before but I'm trying to see if I can update my xPro2 firmware from 1.0 - 3.11 without having to do all the other incremental updates ?
If not, does anyone have a download link to a list of the older incremental firmware updates body & lens?
I'm hoping that an issue I'm having with the camera is fixed in one of the updates.
Camera issue :
When I hold down the shutter I sometimes get a half screen of vertical lines in the OVF and the back display screen. See attached photo. You can see the white vertical lines on the right taking over half the view.
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I'll be traveling to Venice in 3 months and just wanted to poke my head in here to see any recommendations on lens selection. I'll be there for four days with my wife, so this is really not a photography trip per se, but I do plan on doing some photography (especially long exposure photography) early in the morning before the wife wakes up and probably in one evening.
This should be a fairly easy one as I have most of my gear decision made:
Camera body: Just the X-T2
* Definitely: 10-22mm // 35mm f/1.4
* Debating: 18-55mm vs 18-135mm
Tripod: Vanguard Veo 235ab
Other Lenses That I own but not planning to bring:
* 23mm f/1.4 and f/2
* 50mm f/2
* 56mm f/1.2
* 90mm f/2
As you can see, I already have my heart set of the 10-22 for landscape and 35mm f/1.4 for general low light and/or portrait shoot.
The only lenses that I'm debating between is the 18-55 vs 18-135. My heart is leaning towards the 18-55 for a lighter package. I'm just not sure whether I'll miss the focal length range from 56-135mm.
I'm also planning on bringing a small Vanguard Veo tripod for very long exposure shots (10-15 minutes).
Let me know your thoughts on my gear selection…
The photographers (all of us in red suits) on this excursion to Svalbard were divided into several groups, based on their energy levels. The group you see in this photo was called the "climbers". Being older and saner (and incidentally, less energetic) I was in a group euphemistically called "the meanderers". The meanderers didn't climb, we strolled around the base of the mountain. There was no way I was going to climb this with perhaps 15 lb. of Fuji cameras and lenses in my backpack plus a 4 lb. tripod. I was entirely happy to photograph the mountain with the climbers on it.
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Last Friday my wife and I had the pleasure of attending Mary Black's concert in Nashville, Tennessee. It's part of her North American farewell tour (actually the second leg of it; the first was a few years ago). After this tour, unless she decides to add a third leg later, it seems like only those of you in or near Ireland will get to hear her live.
Her lead-in act was her daughter, Róisín O. A special treat for us was that Maura O'Connell (another great Irish singer) joined her on stage for one song.
Mary Black, Bill Shanley, Richie Buckley and guest percussionist by Ron Stewart, on Flickr
I'll post a few more photos in a reply. All were taken with my X100S at f2.8 or f2.0, with a shutter speed of 1/80 seconds, and auto ISO.
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I love my X100F so much , I decided to do a portrait of her!
14 hours and 40 mins pen to iPad.
iPad Pro 12.9", Apple Pencil and Procreate app.
I hope you all enjoy as much as I did doing it!
Best viewed in fullscreen HD or 4K if possible.
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I recently purchased the 23 F2 (wonderful little lens by the way). I also have the 16/1.4 and for that lens I purchased a 3rd party wide metal lens hood. I thought perhaps I'd replace the little hood that comes with the 23 for another similar to the one I have for the 16. When I checked the price of the Fuji lens hood for the 23 F2 (43mm filter) it is $59.99! Cost 13 percent of what I paid for the lens. I purchased a 3rd party hood (Fotasay) on Amazon .. $7.59 including shipping. Quality is fine, and fits perfectly.
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I have been away from digital for about three years. Shooting all film and processing it myself. I'm thinking of a X-T1 and wondered about how to have remote triggered flash. I would like to be able to use two strobes off of the camera. Anyone doing that? I used to do it with Nikon using Photix strobes and trigger. Don't know if they offer anything for the Fujifilm X. Thanx…
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What are you setting your EVF brightness to? I find that I set it for daylight, but then my images at night don't have proper exposure. But, when I set it to auto, my shots at night are showing as bright in the EVF but end up underexposed. I know I should be using the meter and histogram, but if I am moving really fast I just use the EVF exposure... sometimes to my detriment…
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As a Fujifilm shooter, I have been using Lightroom for many version. But recently my Macbook is too old to update and my Lightroom cannot upgrade to Lightroom 6, so all my raw file from X-T20 doesn't work.
I am going to get a new iMac then I can have the option to choose between upgrade to Lightroom 6 or switch to Capture One 10. I read some people said that Capture One works better with Fujifilm raw file.
Not sure which one I should choose? Should I buy or subscribe?
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I'm looking for a prime that is equivalent to something between 18 and 28mm to use on my X-T2.
Currently looking at the Fuji 18mm f/2 or something more dramatic like the Samyang 12mm f/2. Heard good things about both, especially for their size and price. But wide angles have never been my strong suit, so I'm stuck. My wide angle experiences have been on the shorter end of a 24-70mm or a 14mm on a full frame body. I always found the 14 too extreme and the 24 just right for most landscape work. But for stuff like urban exploring, interior shooting or tight spaces, the 24 was a bit narrow. The 14 was still very extreme, a 16 or an 18 would be my choice now, looking back at it.
Are there any options I'm missing here?
Autofocus is nice, but I don't really care when I'm at that focal length. And I really don't need a larger aperture than 2.8. However, if I can get something at f/2, that's nice of course. tack sharp edges isn't crucial either. Needs to be in the "cheaper" price ranges bacause I'm looking at accompanying it with a 56mm f/1.2 or a 90mm f/2 for portraiture. Already own a 35mm f/1.4, whom I love as much as any 50mm I've had on a full-frame DSLR.
Furthermore I'm looking at getting a 16-55 instead of two more primes. But that's another discussion.
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SOOC raw processed using LR default settings.with X`Pro 2
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When shooting aperture priority, I'd like to use the rear dial instead of the front dial for changing exposure compensation. It's ergonomically better, and the rear dial has a better feel when turning it than the front dial…