I know that using ES disables flash, but I have been using ES in daylight for street photography. Does anyone here favour ES over MS, and is there any other benefit apart from the silence, for example, does ES cause less vibration and therefore lead to sharper images? You can tell I've only had this fantastic camera for two weeks, can't you?…
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How about this:
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Fuji X-T1, ISO 200, 1/500ss, 35mm f1.4 lens at f1.8
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We now know that LR6 perpetual license is not going to have any successor, but that doesn't mean it is totally dead and buried! So let's cancel the Hurst and instead share how we can make the most with LR6, especially with regards, to performance. I would also like to include 3rd Party add-ons or external products that can make the user experience as good as possible.
I'll kick off with my setup:
I am also flirting with ON1, Luminar, and a bunch of other image/raw processing tools.
- I am on an iMac with a large internal SSD, a Thunderbolt Promise RAID box and a Gig Ethernet connected NAS.
- The LR catalog lives on my local SSD
- The photos live on the Thunderbolt RAID box
- Both are backed up to the LAN connected NAS, which is also backed up further
- For ingesting and culling sizeable jobs, I use Photo Mechanic, then I use Iridient X-Transformer to convert my best raw images, with files on the SSD, before importing the entire lot into LR which moves the files to the TB Promise box
- I use LR6 to create Smart Previews, which aids when flipping between images
- If re-culling is required, I can open the image folder in Photo Mechanic and delete any I don't want to keep, then in LR, I re-sync the folder
- Use LR also for exporting and publishing and printing
- Use LR for key wording and star ratings
Well that's a summary, without going into every detailed step. It should give you some ideas. Now over to the rest of the community…
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DAM=Digital Asset Management i.e. image database/cataloging
Please let's keep this thread purely for discussing DAM software available in 2017 and beyond.
With Adobe breaking their word about keeping LR perpetual licensing on-going, the road for non Credit Card (CC) licensed LR stops right now with LR6. This is why Adobe has been totally silent in fixing terrible performance issues in LR6, so that now they can try to incentivise users to move to a subscription license with LR7, which promises to be what LR6 should have been! Anyway, enough of complaining - we now have a large number of pro-sumer and consumer photographers who are actively searching for DAM alternatives.
I would like this thread to be THE place to come to, to find good alternatives! As many major s/w vendors are now ramping up to get our $$ for the coming years, we need good information on what is currently available, and what is around the corner.
So, I invite ya'll to reply, hopefully with some of the following points:
- Currently available DAMs
- Announced, but not shipping yet
- Links to the software AND to good reviews
- Personal experiences, if using
I want use auto iso settings 200-6400 or 12800. I choose a suitable shutter speed and aperture from the lens rotation ring.
Shutter ring is "A". When I look at the finder it shows usually 6400 or 12800 Even if smaller is enough. Still, the picture looks right exposed and picture info shows about 800-3200.
Autofocus continous or single does not affect. Same problem is all my Fujis lens.
Last weekend was supposed to be the height of the fall colours in southern Ontario. It rained most of the weekend, and the unseasonably warm weather in the last few weeks meant that the bright red maples we are used to seeing were still mostly green. To avoid a terminally boring weekend we drove to Fenelon Falls, and were lucky to catch a few hours of respite from the rain.
The new Yashica "digital film" camera got me interested in picking up a good vintage rangefinder camera. I've always heard about the "rangefinder experience", and I can't afford a Leica (yet), so I decided on the "Poor man's Leica" - a Canon Canonet. After losing about 3 days of my life down the internet rabbit hole, I emerged with a beautiful Canonet QL17iii.
AND, ahem... a Yashica Electro 35 GX. (I know)
It's amazing how alike these two cameras are. Literally "twins separated at birth". Same overall size and design. Both sport 40mm f/1.7 lenses with EE in the lens, so metering isn't affected by filters. They are nearly identical in every way, except the Canonet is a "shutter priority" system capable of full manual override, and the Yashica is "aperture priority" only.
The Canonet QL17iii is absolutely gorgeous. Looks nearly new. I paid quite a lot ($180) for a mint refurbished and CLA'ed copy so I wouldn't have any trouble. Unfortunately, it seems that the box took a hit in shipping - when I opened it, the seller-supplied UV filter was badly bent! (He said it was definitely NOT bent when he shipped.)
While the camera looks perfectly fine, there is definitely a problem with the RF focusing accuracy. Most of my test images were not in focus. I took time today to re-calibrate the RF, and I hope that solves it (it's easy to do on the Canonet. There are holes in the body where you insert a screwdriver to make the H and V adjustments while doing a bunch of other things.). If that doesn't solve the issue, I may send it back to the seller and have him re-calibrate it.
The Yashica Electro 35 GX (not GSN) was sort of a "bonus". I "accidentally" won for $38 with a last-minute silly bid. I'm happy I did! It is JUST as beautiful as the Canon, and also in nearly new condition. It came from Precision Camera in Austin, who seem to have just dumped a TON of stuff on eBay, so I'm wondering if the items are repair jobs that were never picked up? The GX looks like it is fresh out of the box including a nearly perfect 2-part leather case.
Both cameras were treated to fresh, correct voltage batteries, and the metering on both seems spot on. Both shot Portra 160 at box speed, developed "dip and dunk" at Duggal in NYC, and scans were with a Lomography "DigitaLiza" (a weird contraption which lets you perfectly center and flatten 6 frames at a time in a plastic mask you can either set on a flatbed scanner, or via a Digital camera and lightbox. Which is the way I did it.). I "Scanned" with a Sony A7ii and Tamron 90/2.5 Macro (52BB). Unfortunately, the Tamron is only 1:2, and I couldn't fill the screen with a 35mm frame, so I scanned 2 frames at a time. This gives a roughly 2,800 pixel wide scan for each image. (I'm going to look into getting the dedicated 1:1 macro extender for the Tamron.)
I opened the RAWs in PSD, inverted, then used the black point, white point and grey level "droppers" to get a starting spot for exposure and color. Final adjustments in LightRoom. All were shot as close to f/1.7 as possible. I used an ND or CPL to knock the light down as needed because both cameras only go to 1/500th and I wanted to stay wide open.
Overall, I'm extremely happy with the results from BOTH cameras. Many of my "comparison" shots were out of focus on the Canon due to the misalignment but, from what I can see, it's pretty much apples and apples. Very similar performance. I might like the Yashica a little better... seems a little punchier, better color and slightly smoother bokeh. But it's close.
Yashica portrait of Canon. (The Yashica focuses a bit closer, even though they both spec. MFD at .8m / 2.6')
Canonet portrait of GX (weirdly, it focused fine at close distances) Colors are a bit cooler with the Canon.
Yashica. Blurring on the distant building is smoother and more blurry. A little punchier image.
Canonet. A little less DOF blurring, and less "punch", but that could be due to the misaligned RF?
Canon dreaming big. Leica Store, West Broadway, NY. (What looks like a light leak is not. It's leaked light from my scanning rig. Need to fix that.)
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Of course Adobe says it's a Fuji issue and Fuji says it's an Adobe issue. So let me lay this out.
Prior to the new Lightroom Classic CC, when I transferred the RAF files from my X-Pro 2 or my X100f, the RAF image files appeared in the library under the appropriate date as well as in the Lightroom library. In both places the files are RAF files.
I purchased the new X-E3 and had to wait for the new Lightroom update in order to transfer my RAF files from it. The new Lightroom Classic CC allows me to make the X-E3 file transfers but... here is the issue:
The RAF images appear in the Lightroom library. No problem there. I can process and save the files (I do as JPEGs). So the files are transferred from the camera to the library on my computer. But when I go to the computer library and look under the date, I do NOT see the thumbnails that I have seen in the past. All I see is a blank RAF sheet for each transferred file. If I click on the blank, the RAF image will open. When I close it I see an XMP sheet for the file opened but still no thumbnail.
In short, everything seems to work as it should but the RAF file thumbnail does not show in the computer library. Anybody else notice this? Like I said, I spent and hour and 40 minutes on hold for Adobe only to be summarily told it is a camera issue. I then called Fuji and was told it is an Adobe issue. All I know for certain is that it is my issue. HELP!
This is only an issue with the X-E3. I did a couple of quick shots with the X-Pro 2 and the thumbnails show up perfectly in the main computer library…
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My personal preference is not to have my home as a personal art gallery. Don't get me wrong, I'm proud of the photos I take and I have some of my own work hanging up, but I'd prefer to display work from others as well.
We could do this one of many ways.
1 - Do a "Secret Santa" style where everyone interested signs up is and is assigned a fellow member, then sends an 8x10 print to that member.
2 - We can post our "best" one to three pictures in a common thread. If two members like each others' photos, they can agree to send each other an 8x10 print.
Myself, I kinda like the first idea. It would be fun to get a surprise print…
Went out hiking last weekend in the Allgäu Alps. Beautiful weather and scenery! Shot with the X-T20 and XF18-55 mm. Please login or register to view links. Thanks for looking!
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FUJI X-E2S (BODY) Silver / Black $584.95 CAD
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Just a simple snap taken at Rye Sussex UK of the Old Borough Arms public house at the bottom of the famous Mermaid Street.
X-T1, 18-55mm Lens, 1/480th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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I have been using my xe2s for a couple of weeks in AE mode and have been very impressed with the results, but I now want to start using manual focus. The manual that came with the camera is OK but I am not seeing what it says I should see in the EVF in manual mode eg the split image is never split and it looks like it is impossible to focus on a wider area than the little square in the middle. I would be really grateful if someone on this forum could give me an idiot proof step by step guide to how to use manual focus. Thanks in advance…
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Hello. Huge apologies for starting a new thread...
New Fuji shooter here. I purchased a new X1f to trigger a new TT685f. My problem is that often and for no reason they don't talk to each other... I have read all the threads, and they do work and then they do not.
Also, I can't normally change the mode via the X1f on the slave TT685. But sometimes I can. I need to set the TT685 into flash, and then I can dial in exposure from the X1f. But to switch from Manual to TTL via the X1f...? Sometimes, but not often.
DO I have a defective unit? I am a mac user, so am running version 1 on the TT685f. On camera, all is fine!
Thanks in advance…
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Looking to switch to Fuji XT2s for my work from canon 5dmkiii and have to figure out my wireless flash options. Looks like I may have 2 that fit what i do:
1. all in one system (preferred) - godox ving 860iiF or
2. trigger w/hotshoe passthrough and power control (cactus) + EF42 onboard
Red beam focus assist is important to me also to get the camera to lock focus as fast and accurately as possible during low light - fast movement situations. Im assuming these two options I have allow for some sort of focus assist light. With the Godox system, its all in one but ive used it on my canon system and it wasnt the most reliable system compared to my 600ex setup.
Does anyone have general experience or suggestions?…
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I must say I am not to sure what to think of this new upgrade. First they changed from permanent License to subscription - it took a long time for me to accept that, but I learned to like that model with the immediate upgrades. Now they want to go from local processing to cloud processing. Yes Lightroom Classic is still available, but is it to go the way of Lightroom 6 for no choice but the cloud? The new name definitely suggests that.
This leaves me seriously considering what to do with my workflow. There are more and more alternatives out there, but require a new purchase with every upgrade - do I want that? I like the Lightroom subscription model now that I have gotten used to that, but it appears to be as unstable as the rest of the alternatives now. Instead of saving my work in a catalog I am seriously considering exporting everything to Tiffs using a good O/S folder system for organization. That way when I need (or am forced) to change to a new product (or alternative) I still have what I need organized as I want it.
With the Catalog of Lightroom now questionable as to how long I can keep it local I am not sure I want to use it. I may be happier with a collection of Tiffs. Definitely something to ponder. What are your thoughts?…
Very interesting article at imaging resource (imaging-resource.com) regarding Adobe Lightroom latest versions…
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IQ > edit/save custom setting
I want: c1/c2: daylight settings and c3/c4: flash settings
I can set acros and auto-white balance, but I can't set:
- C1: raw+acros, auto white balance, auto-iso1
- C2: raw+acros, auto white balance, auto-iso2
- C3: raw+acros, white balance: flash, flash settings, auto-iso1
- C4: raw+acros, white balance: flash, flash settings: -0.3ev, auto-iso2
How do you guys deal with this?
- white-balance: flash
- auto-iso1 or 2 or 3
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I know there is a post already about the new LR Classic CC that adobe just announced. I read though 3 pages and most of it was just people complaining about the subscription that they are "forced" to pay for if they want the latest update or how there are better alternative software out there. I am not here to debate about those stuff.
I am just curious about one thing, is there a performance difference between the new LR Classic CC and LR6. Let's try to keep it simple and don't flood this post useless chatter.
Here are the questions:
What fuji cameras files have you tested it with?
What OS? Windows/Mac?
What processor and how much RAM do you have?
Do you see a difference in speed when you move from one image to another?
Do you see a difference in speed when you zoom in to 100%?
Overall, do you feel a difference between the two?
From 1-10, 10 being the best what would you give the LR6 vs the new LR Classic CC in terms of overall performance…
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Haven't used flash much lately having made the switch over to Fuji I no longer own any flash units. I still have much of the other gear (stands, umbrellas, modifiers etc). In my Nikon days I used SB600's and SB800's. I'd use the pop-up flash on the camera to fill and trigger the other two flash units. I liked it because of its simplicity of operation and it was easily moved around. Any chance I can reproduce this without breaking the bank?
I currently own a X-T1 and will probably procure a used X-T2 in the future.
I upgraded the firmware to 3.11 on my XPro2 w/ a soft release. Now it seems my battery drains out even when the camera is off. I did a quick search and found that it happens to a lot of ppl. This never happened before the upgrade. Does anybody have a cure for the problem aside from removing the release?
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Hi, I have the fuji X-A2 and I've been wanting another lens for a while. But, I can't decide wich lens to get first. I keep changing mind between a the 35 mm f2 and the 50-230mm f4.5-6.7 OIS. I've been worrying about focal lentght of the 35 mm as I find it I zoomed in at the 35mm mark on my kit lens indoors would not be wide enought in house or in tighter space and would not be able to do handheld selfie. And the 50-230mm as it start of at the 50mm focal lentght, I'm woried that it will not be wide enougt for certain cituation. I recently discovered the 23mm f2 and now it makes it more difficult to decide. I shoot moslty lanscapes and nature but would like to have a fast lense good in low light. Any recomendation appreciated. …
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The link below has the speaker schedule, and lists various special offers
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I'm a huge fan of the XF50mm f/2 lens. I think it's one of the most versatile X Series lenses they've made so far. Really, what's not to love? It's fast, ultra compact, inexpensive, super sharp, weather sealed, it has 9 aperture blades for super delicious bokeh and it's got a very fast AF motor that focuses very close. Essentially, it allows you to get that short telephoto compressed look without having to carry a bigger lens.
Having used it extensively for the past 8 months, the 50 has quickly become one of my favorite Fuji lenses. It's awesome for travel, and I take it just about everywhere I go now. You can pretty much do everything with this lens- portraits, landscapes, closeup, action, street, wildlife, (Please login or register to view links that @Charlie Spaghetti shot with the 50!)
I think the Fuji f/2 primes are all awesome, and the 50 is a superb addition to the lineup. Please login or register to view links
Who else loves the 50? Let's see what you've shot with it!
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I have been wondering about the advantages and disadvantages of using HSS vs. using neutral density filters. I did a search and it seemed to me that most people seem to favor ND filters because is utilizes more power of the flash. I was wondering if perhaps it all equaled out in the end. To try to come to some conclusion I ran some tests using my X-T1 and my Godox TT685. What I found was that for each jump in shutter speed over the synch speed of the camera I lost about .8EV of flash power..
1/250 0 or so close as to not matter
1/2000 -2.4 EV
It seems to me that using HSS or neutral density filters is fairly close to a wash at least with the equipment I tested. With ND filters the flash can put out full power but F2 could actually the equivalent of F4 or 8 or whatever because of the filter, whereas with HSS the flash isn't putting out full power but F2 is F2.
Hope I am making sense here.
Any thoughts or input is appreciated. Maybe my logic is way off…
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Adobe announced their new versions of Lightroom today. LR 6 is the last standalone perpetual license product. They will update it for new cameras and bugs through the end of the year. Then it is done. There is two new versions of the Credit Card version, classic and the new completely cloud based, in which you may also need to buy more storage. The only big new features besides speed improvements is some masking, like color ranges etc.
I have been getting away from adobe and never found the credit card version to be worth it for me. YMMV. Serif (Affinity Photo) is going to come with their take on a similar type program to LR. There is Capture One which I like a lot, also OnOne, etc. so there are lots of options to Adobe if that is your choice.