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You probably also received a notice of this. It's the site to upload your warranty stuff, serial numbers, copies of invoices.. and I did this again for the body and one lens successfully in fujifilm-connect because they did not copy the data themselves from 'world' to 'connect'.
But bought a lens as of late and wanted to join that data on 'connect' but for a fair bit of time this site Please login or register to view links does not respond anymore? A full blanco page is all I get.
Known issue? Is there a work around?
I suppose the site takes care of the warranties issues, so it's not a little deal…
Fuji X-H1 + Fringer adapter + Sigma Art 18-35mm f1.8
Works brilliantly with full AF plus aperture control via touchscreen.
But for stills, for the life of me cannot work out how to set aperture manually!
Tried setting it on the left rear pad button and the back dial but no joy on this or any lens.
I’m keen to hear from anyone with an X-H1 and any lens without manual aperture ring.
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Often fancied having a closer look at the heavens around us, and capturing my findings on camera.
Anybody on here into Astral photography?
Would this be a good starting telescope, could the X-T2 be attached to it easily for good results?
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A couple taking a break from Boise's busy 8th Street bars and restaurants.
Back Alley Break.jpg
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Why not to start nice weekend with some lens disassembly? : )
This time it's 7artisans 55mm F1.4 . Surprisingly this lens is a joy to take apart, and easy to assemble back. It's interestingly constructed.
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Weddings with 80 f2.8.
Is anyone using the 80 macro f2.8 for weddings? How does it handle focusing in low light and locking onto moving subjects like the bride and groom walking and other event activities. How effective is the IS.
I know most favor the 90mm for its speed and f2 boken. I am looking to lighten the load and get away from carrying the 50-140 and the 80 seems to fit the bill in addition to its macro abilities. Any comments or advice would be appreciated.
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She's cute as a button and fast as lightening. She gave grandma a real workout to get these shots…
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On single autofocus, but not on continuous or manual, when half pressing the shutter button, the aperture blades on my 18-55 f/2.8-4 seem to hit some stops on the way when closing and every stop when opening, as seen in the video. This didn't use to happen and is quite annoying and interferes with taking shots because the blades take a long time to close to take a photo and then a long time to open again.

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I have a borrowed (Nikon 20mm f2.8) and I wanted to play with it on a tilt-shift adapter. And then I go out another lens. And another. And I am looking at the images for how the lenses render. And musing about the lenses I have collected because of how they render....
Me: "I love these lenses..."
Wife: "Is this going to turn into a polyamory conversation?"
Me: "Well, I suppose I love them all in their own ways, so, I guess I could see that..."
Wife: "What!?"
Wife goes from flirtatious to indignant in seconds ;)
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Just curious if the WCL mounted (X100F in my case) causes a shadow from the on board flash? Thinking about getting a WCL for close quarters but not interested in also having to purchase another flash to get decent results. Too bad the EF-X8 wont work on the 100's, perfect size. Thanks in advance for your thoughts…
Between being in a real photo slump as of late and not being able to sit much at my home computer with back issues (the life of an IT guy) I haven't done much lately. Just got on this forum to browse around again for a bit.
This is a shot from Windy Point Vista up on Mt Lemmon NE of Tucson, AZ. What a killer view and what a killer drive. Shot January 1, 2018. It was hazy from all the fires in California. Dad lives in Apache Junction and sister in Mesa, so when I am out there I explore the mountains.
This was a 8 shot pano. f/13, 5omm, iso 200. Finaly image size is 16372 x 2937
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I've seen other threads about this but not for Lightroom (usually for Capture 1). Anyway, I was playing around with converting RAF files to DNG (lossy) files and saw this. It seems to be repeatable (happened in 2/2 separate conversions).
A few other points. When I first viewed the DNG files, they were pink, but then "selecting" them in Lightroom made them look normal, then back to pink after a few seconds (I think maybe the embedded jpg was being shown and then not shown, or something like that). Exporting as a jpg file resulted in pinkness.
Any thoughts?
(also, feel free to say whatever you want but I am not looking for a general discussion of DNG files or lossy DNG files (e.g., storage is so cheap! you lose quality! Demosaicing may improve in later years and you'll wish you had the RAF! etc.)…
Which film simulation with which settings would you recommend to produce the most neutral look? With "neutral" I mean color accuracy (hue, luminance, saturation) "as it is" with no interpretation what so ever. This should be an objective mesurable issue (like one can measure the color accuracy of a monitor).
Following this question: When I shoot in only raw: What will the display or the evf show me? Normally it shows me the result of the chosen film sim.
And what histogram does it show me? Fuji does not support raw histogram, as I read in this forum…
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New on the blog: Part four in my ongoing series on street photography composition. It's time to make some portraits!
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I hope everyone has a great weekend!
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Taken at a music festival. X-T2, 35mm f/1.4 wide open.
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After making a backup of my camera settings I would like to save a human readable copy. Is there any software that can read the back-up file and translate it into human readable format?
I am referring to this type of file: FUJIFILM_X-T2_2018 618_1620.dat

This is what I see in a text editor:
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Hi, I am using X-t2 after firmware upgrade to 4.10
When I press shutter after setting parameters for focus bracketing, the camera still takes exposure brackets, not focus-braketed photos. What did I do wrong?…
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Hi all,
I've had a look through the forum here and thought I knew what I needed. Then I asked an eBay seller what I thought was an easy question and they canceled my order lol.
I am wanting to adapt my friends Nikon lenses to my X-T20, cos he has a bunch and why not?! He said they were D lenses, but as I was a Canon shooter before Fuji, I have no idea what that means. I also got confused between Ai, AF-D etc etc. The K&F adapters seem to get decent reviews and are easily available to me being in Australia. I know they have the G-version adapter and then another without an aperture dial. My questions were: when using the G-version adapter, can you still use the lenses own aperture ring or do you have to rely on the adapter dial (this doesn't seem accurate)? And, if so, would the non-G version work with the lenses in the front row of the supplied pic?
I'm pretty sure the non-G was all I needed, but the eBay cancellation made me think otherwise. Thanks in advance!
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X-Pro2, Revuenon 55 f1.2, lensturbo
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Hi there,
This is my second clip on how versatile the X100 series can be.
I have a well used 18-55 lens; lately sometimes when I switch the camera on with the lens attached the lens emits a buzzing or low grating sound which stops after a few seconds; it happens whether OIS is on or off and seems to bear no relation to OIS.
Has anybody else had such a issue or does it mean an early trip to Bedford?
The lens otherwise seems to work fine.
Many thanks…
I have been struggling to get images from my X100 that I thought were sharp. Well, I think I may have figured out (with a lot of help) part of what I was doing wrong...
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Other Fuji cameras (X-E1, X-P1 and X10) I had endlessly tweaked my JPEG settings to get something I liked. It turns out that the settings that worked so well on my other cameras do not give the kinds of results I was expecting on tge X100. So, I looked for X110 images that I liked and tried to ferret out what settings and techniques those photographers were using. I also read comments from my previous posts on this and got some really great insight on where I was messing things up. I ended up trying this today and above is the result.
Film Simulation - Astia
Dynamic Range - 100
Sharpness - M-HARD (I backed it off a bit from Hard)
Highlight Tone - STD
Shadow Tone - M-HARD
Noise - Low

I also shot at F5.6 and above instead of F4 and made sure to have the ND handy in bright sunlight. I did the same using BW+R wth equally nice results. FWIW setting the sharpness to HARD didn't work nearly as well.
THIS is the image quality I had been expecting from the X100…
At some point in the near future, I'll have to ditch my aging laptop and get a desktop PC with a separate monitor. I was pondering either a 27" 4k display or a 32" Ultrawide monitor, and I was wondering what the wisdom of the colletive leans toward? The 4k display has more pixels and is probably sharper for photo editing, but the wide aspect ratio of an ultrawide display appeals to me, especially for panorama editing (movies and games probably won't look bad either, although these are secondary use cases). Has anyone experience with comparing both types?…
On the way we saw some nice views...
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I set my beloved X-Pro 1 on the restaurant seat beside me, then accidentally knocked it off onto a tile floor. There are no marks from the fall, but the shutter button/on-off switch mechanism was knocked off. Fuji says it can only be fixed with a new top plate assembly, and they are out of parts.
Does anyone know of an independent repair facility or even a high-level tinkerer in the U.S. who might have the parts and ability to fix my camera?
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Tighter view of a previous post
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Taken a while ago with a Sony F717 5mp camera
No, ice cream is not served at the gas station.
Fuji X-T2, 23mm f/1.4
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Fungal hyphae on old log. X-M1, 27mm + 16mm extension tube.
[As an aside, not related to this photo, I'm trying to figure out which camera I like best, including for close-up, between the X-M1 and the X100, and at the moment the X-M1 is winning in the imaging department. Colours, contrast and details all outshine the otherwise beautiful thing that is the X100...]
Fungal hyphae on old log 27mm + 16mm extension tube - 1a.jpg
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A few from our recent trip to Canandaigua, NY-
Evening overlooking lake at Bristol Harbour lodge during dinner-
Next morning overlooking the Canandaigua boat houses-
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Bought a new Fuji X-H1 about 2 weeks ago. Putting it through it’s paces and no major problems. Do have one minor issue. When panning with the rear LCD screen, after about 10 seconds the image is no longer smooth but becomes jerky. Only happens in single shot mode, never in video mode, and never with the EVF. Anyone else notice this or have any idea what it could be. Happens whether the IBIS is on or off.
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hi all
Glad to have found this
Just started taking photos or snap shots lol on my Fuji xt1
Looking forward to reading and hopefully getting some advice…
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oude kerkhop mechelen.jpg
This photo of an old graveyard in Mechelen earned a soft tint…
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Just a simple Landscape type snap taken at Canterbury Kent UK of part of the River Stour that flows through the town.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens, 1/200th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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i own and shoot a fuji s5 pro dslr, i am not sure how to maximize the full 12 mp in the camera. i do like the images very much, but i don,t understand the HDR setting in the menu, they go from 100% to 400%. And I have no idea what the difference is . Can anyone help. Thanks…
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