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It may not be an X-T3, but it’s a T3 nevertheless. Well, it’s actually a T3N (made 1975-1978), but Konica didn’t consider the changes from the T3 important enough to badge the “N” on the body. I got this and some other gear from the original owner (a neighbor), and it’s almost as good as new, obviously has had very little use. Everything I’ve been able to check so far is in proper working order, but one of my concerns was confirmed upon inspection: she did not remove the meter batteries when she stopped using it back when, and one of them had started leaking. Fortunately, it looks like the camera had been stored bottom side down, so it doesn’t look like any of the leakage found its way up into the body. There is not even any corrosion on the battery contact point, which was wet with that leaking crud, so unless fumes crept up into the body and got some corrosion going, it looks like it should be OK. I’ll know when I get a couple new batteries and test it out. The other possible problem is just age related… the seals around the back cover have turned a bit tacky, on the verge of turning to goo. They’re probably OK for now, but if I start putting this camera to real use, that issue may need to be addressed.
How much did I pay? That's unclear. For $115, I got this camera/lens plus a Rollei Strobonar 280S flash, Tiffen 55mm sky filter, Kalt T-mount adapter for Konica, and a cable release. “But wait, there’s more.” I also got a Bausch & Lomb 15-60x 60mm zoom telescope, Bushnell car window mount (basically a tripod head on a clamp instead of legs), and a Bogen/Manfrotto 3001 tripod with a 3029 3-way head, all in excellent condition. All in all, I guess it was a pretty good score for the money. Photo shot with X-E2 and XF18-55.
konica_T3N_front.jpg
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Fujifilm XPro1 + 14mm; 50-230mm
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XE2 + Fujinon XF60mm, SOOC Jpeg, Velvia
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Do they all flicker like mad in moderate to low light? I don’t recall either the X-E1 or X-P1 ever doing it and my X100 and NEX 7 certainly don't. I am actually kinda surprised at how pronounced it is.
...and it gives me a headache.
I'm updating to FW 4.11 to see if that helps…
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Shot with my XPro1 and Rokinon 8mm tonight of my MINI (with freshly installed laurels graphics on the boot) and the Milkyway over head.
about 25 second exposure, f2.8 at about 2500ISO (I think).
[​IMG]
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Is anybody using the Fuji Camera Remote app? I have Please login or register to view links, but I understand there's one for IOS as well.
I got it to work between my phone and X-T20 just fine, but it's producing a square, low-rez file in both .jpg and .RAF format. I understand that's probably needed because you don't want to transfer huge picture files to your phone, but I'd like to be able to use my phone as a remote and just leave the full-size files on the camera. Is there a way to do this, or was this conveniently left out of this app? I'm not seeing how to change that anywhere. Thanks in advance for whatever knowledge you can send my way…
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Hi folks, Fuji newbie here. Just got the X-T2. I've been using LR4, and PSCS6, and they've worked fine for my old Canon 5D II pics, but I think my move to mirrorless will require an upgrade. I would like to avoid going the subscription route, hence my remaining with LR4 ect. all these years.
I've seen LR6 on Amazon, does anyone know if it works with our X files (I shoot RAW and JPEG)?
I'm looking for both editing, and asset management, so the ability to transfer catalogs from LR is a plus, but not absolutely necessary.
I've looked at Luminar, and they say their asset management module is coming soon, has anyone used it or can point me to a review?
Thanks in advance for any ideas. Almost forgot, I use Mac.
Vagabond787…
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Portrait shoot with Ms.Lorraine
Taken with Fuji XT-20 and 56F1.2R
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FallFirsFallenLeavesCreekFlowing.jpg
XT2 and XF55-200mm tri-plodding™ along a creek at a local MetroPark today.
Thanks for looking,
Ed…
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I was looking for a belt attachable compact lens case for my Fuji lenses. Specifically one that would fit my Fuji 90mm with hood or 50-230 with hood and not be too large and obtrusive. This APE case fits the bill perfectly. This way I can have just my camera strapped around my shoulder and if I need to swap a lens out I can with this simple belt case. It's got another pad inside that is removable so it will fit your smaller lenses like the 35 1.4. I would probably just leave the extra pad out because the pouch still has plenty of pad already sewn in.
I chose this over the Lowepro and Domke because of the smaller footprint. I didn't want some huge wide lens bag made for fat DSLR lenses getting in my way. Adorama and Amazon has these for just $10.79
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XT20 with adapted Tokina wide zoom (11-16) at 11 mm, oriented in portrait, and slightly cropped…
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"Table for two"
Delhi, India 2018
Fuji X-T2 + XF23mm f2
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My wife loves her X-E1 and its rangefinder form and won't even think about a non-rangefinder style replacement. She's more inclined to the X-E2 than the E3 because, although shorter across, the E3 is quite a bit "thicker" than the other two. Does anyone who's made the change think the E3 is less portable for that reason? If one wants simplicity of operation above all else is the price difference between the E2 and E3 worth the extra anyway?
X-E1 at work small.jpg
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I've got a Sandisk Ultra SDHC UHS-I 80MB/s 32GB card that's started playing up. It's taking an extended period of time to write a file to the card whilst in camera and takes a significant time to format. I even did a low level format on my laptop to see if that made a difference but it's still slow. I've cleaned the contacts to ensure it's not them. I've put another same card in slot 1 of my X-T2 and it's fine so it's not the camera.
According to the Sandisk UK website the card should have a 7 year warranty. Has anyone any experience of claiming on that?…
Zoo
at Lisbon
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More on the next post…
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The new kid in town, Bao Bao.
Apenheul / Netherland.
Bao Bao is the new silverback of the gorilla group
X-H1 | XF100-400 | Dark Animal Portrait
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[​IMG][…
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I am persevering with post processing RAW files thanks to encouragement and advice here.
At the same time I would like to have pleasing copies of the files produced by in-camera film sims as I'm also trying to improve my images SOOC/with minimal tweaking after.
In Mac's 'Photos' app these jpegs look pretty nice, in Lightroom they are less pleasing and seem different - could be my imagination... Unfortunately the Mac Photos app doesn't have so many options for editing so I find myself importing images into both apps which is tedious.
Is there one piece of software to rule them all? If not, which do people rate most for their SOOC jpegs - I don't want to have to change horses mid-race, if there is a better way I'd like to find out now. I guess I am stuck with Lightroom for RAW as I have a subscription for the rest of the year.
Thanks in advance…
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TIP:
XT2 can only transfer jpg via Fuji Camera app. You can import RAW files via IPhone SD card reader however I was unable to see previews. Took me a bit to figure it out. You have to switch RAW recording to Uncompressed.
PS I use Lightroom Mobile to edit the RAW files…
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Not sure where to post this request, so went for one of the most popular forums
When photos are posted it really is nice when they have the location details included.
Great that this site is so global, but the drawback is that photos can be taken literally anywhere on the planet
Thank you…
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Good evening everybody!
How are you?
I have a new silhouette series up on my site:
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...all images taken with that old dinosaur, the X-T2. :):):)
I hope everyone is doing well!
Cheers,
Ian…
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Foggy sunrise this morning shot on my X-T20 and 10-24 f/4. Used a CPL filter and a 6 stop ND. F/8, 30 seconds, iso 200.
This is a blend of two images. Both taken at the same settings, but the sky was shot 8-10 minutes before the foreground. Shots blended manually in photoshop using a simple layer mask.
It's looking really under-saturated on my phone and work computer though, so I'm wondering if I need to re-calibrate my editing monitors when I get home.
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[​IMG]
I saw this tyke loading wood at the Steam Engine and Antique Tractor Show. A couple more in the reply, or to see my album on SmugMug <Please login or register to view links>…
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x-e1 w/ 10-24 @ 4.0
Well, I don't have many chances to do these kinds of shoots. Was up at a cottage for the weekend. I told myself might as well give it a try.
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This is my first portrait session with the Fuji X system since purchasing it over the summer. I've done Madison's portraits every year since about 2012, so it's been fun watching her grow up.
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Ex2 / 18-55 mm
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Hi,
this is just a lion head, full of love.
XT20 and Rokkor 135 mm.
Milano 2018
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Hello,
Have a xt3 on order. First in the xt series for me. Just curious if anyone happens to have any experience with this bag and an xt. I think it will squeeze in fine but might be a bit tight with a third lens or a zoom, for instance.
Thanks!…
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A couple of weeks ago I visited the southern Oregon coast (U.S.). I enjoyed shooting in a variety of weather conditions; rain, fog, strong wind blowing sand on the beach and a couple of clear days. Additional images in subsequent posts.
#1
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#2
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View attachment 137452
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I have just recently begun experimenting with some of the emulation capabilities of the GF X. The images look good on the LCD but when I try to open them in either C1 ( after DNG conversion and EXIF adjustments) or Lightroom the effect is absent and I am left with a standard color image. The images do open in sepia the Lightroom Catalog section but revert to the embeded Provia profile once they are moved into the Develop section. Are others having this problem and are there any solutions? I can not believe that Fuji went to the trouble to develop these emulations solely for users to see on the cameras LCD…
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when using a macro lens on a tripod and wishing to do focus stacking, is it better to mount the camera on a rail and move the camera inwards in successive stops, or is it better to simply turn the focus ring taking pictures at several intervals?
Also with either method, is there a desirable f stop to utilize? It seems that an a relatively high f stop giving greater depth of field to each shot would require less shots for the stack. But maybe there are other issues I am not aware of which would suggest using a lower f stop is better…
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Xe2, XF56@1.2
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Last night we were taking advantage of the warm evening while we can for a little after dark swimming. We probably won't get many more chances where we live this year. I had my X-H1 and XF 16-55 handy, and decided to try a hand-held shot to see if IBIS would let me do it. Here's a shot that features a little lava-lamp Bluetooth speaker, playing Crosby Stills and Nash. It was "trippy". ;)
1/5 sec. hand-held - not perfect, but not bad.
[​IMG]
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"Already ancient when the nearby Neolithic burial chambers were being built 5,500 years ago", according to the notice board. Without doubt, it has a special atmosphere. X-H1 with 14mm f/2.8:
Ancient Oak Woodland small.jpg
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Whenever I visit my country the biggest pleasure by far is meeting with my good friends, the ones I dearly call "my Greeks".
X-H1 with 56mm @ 1.4
XH1S1428_fujix.jpg
Just a simple snap taken at Dungeness Kent UK of one of the many old boats scattered about the beach that have just been Left To Rot. Behind the boat is one of the old railway lines that were used for hauling the boats or catch up the beach from the sea.
I'm also working on a personal project called Things Left Behind and this will be one of the shots included.
X-T2, 10-24mm Lens, 1/1250th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Monopod.
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Thank you for looking.,
George…
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