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Portal

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So here's the premise: I live in South Africa and last travelled overseas (Europe) in 1979. Things have changed mightily since then!
My daughter has planned a wonderful 3-week self drive trip in France for us leaving early August.
My dilemma : What to take, what to leave behind. I have two bodies - the X-T2 and X-T20. I'm thinking of pairing the X-T20 with the 35mm f/2 and a light weight stick in the handbag for general use quickies. If I do that - will I still need to take the 18-55? Or do I take the zoom and leave the 35mm at home?
The other lenses I have (which will then go with the X-T2) are the 10-22 (yes, a definite) the 55-200 (yes a definite as well for some longer shots I know I will want). Then the rest are the 16mm (which I love) and 90mm (not necessary for this trip).
So the two I'm hesitant about are the 16mm (covered in the 10-24mm zoom and quite a heavy lens) and the very versatile and useful 18-55. Should I leave the 35mm at home and put the 18-55 on the X-T20?
What do I take? What is too much? Will I regret leaving anything behind? Will I regret having too much clutter?
Also... should I leave the X-T20 in one small handbag that's always with me and the other combo's (X-T2 with several lenses) in a decidated camera bag? Or throw everything in one big bag?…
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Hi folks,
This may be a stupid question. Im buying fuji 18mm f2, can I use a uv filter with lens hood attached?
Any help would be much appreciated…
I sold my XE 1 and Now looking for another camera .Mainly for portraits and Weddings. I am not sure how the X Pro 2 focuses( Rangefinder) Any help is appreciated. Thank you Also, I do use Flash on camera and I use a Bracket for my camera and Off Camera flash as well. Thank you…
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Still new to the X-Pro 2 so doing a bit of experimenting with my sometimes obliging studio cat, Ilsa.
1/200 sec @ f/5.6 at 12,800 ISO
Lens is the 35mm f/2.0
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Hi Folks
I just ordered an X-T2 with the 18-55 Kit lens from the Fuji UK Refurb site.
I owned the original X100 for a few months when it came out but sold it because I needed something faster - I share the camera with my wife who loves SLRs. So for the past few years we've owned a Nikon D7000 with 35mm F1.8 lens and nothing else. It served us well until it died on vacation.
I took the opportunity to buy an X100F instead and enjoyed it, but I can't help but feel that the autofocus could be faster, and I know my wife will hate having to toggle the ND filter on because the shutter speed is not fast enough. Besides, I made the mistake of playing with an X-T2 after using the X100F for a while and fell for that EVF. So I sold the X100F for not too much of a loss (it was cheaper on vacation than Europe).
I feel like I want to get the 23mm F2 since I really enjoyed that focal length on the X100F and I've often felt that the 35mm was a bit too long on the Nikon as a walk about. On the other hand, the 18-55 zoom might be a better walk about lens. Still, the 35mm F2 is my other option. I'd really like the idea (size) of the 27mm pancake, but I reckon it'd be good to have the F2 for low light.
Anyone wanna share their advice?
Thanks…
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This is all I'm seeing today in the What's New section…
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Frankly , my erratic attempts at snap shooting do not make full use of any camera .
SOME cameras and ' considered snap shooting ' help me deal with focusing [ pun ] through a kind of haze of confusion - disorientation .
They call it - disassociation/derealision .
I call it dee's association and dee's realisation ! Gotta laugh.
I connected with the new X-Pro 1 immediately , but it was so affordable @ £220 with new 27mm. Retrospectively I realised that it a similar size / weight / view to my Minolta SRT / 45mm .
The 16-50 from an X-M1 does not work for me on the X-Pro .
No reason for this ...but on the X-M1 it's - acceptable - with zoom and screen viewing as a notebook similar to my X-F1 smart phone substitute .
However , I sometime ago , I played with an X-T10 with a zoom and that did feel ' right ' , indeed perfect .
But it was unjustifiable in terms of outlay .
Same lens , similar interface , but maybe X-Pro signals 'rangefinder 'as the X-M10 signals 'compact'.
There is no way that I NEED the X-T10 , the body is more than the current cameras combined .
The sole REASON is an obscure sense of rightness and to use my Rokkors in a familiar environment .
I would sell a couple of Barnack Leicas as I won't be returning to film.
Have you bought a camera you would like , but don't need ? It feels a bit self indulgent somehow .
I mean , I have collected inexpensive film cameras as a comfort zone , but it's different with a useable camera at around £400 somehow.
dee…
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Here's two photos from a walk to the bus station. one is my favorite subject, the graphic in the world. The other shot has 3 pairs, women, ones, and cups. Both shot with X70, developed in Raw Therapee.
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I went out for a test run with my X100F. I used manual focus for all of my images- when I looked back on my computer, non of them had any focus whatsoever. None of my manual focusing, using the wheel, had registered? The focus showed up fine in the viewfinder, say, a cat's face and a blurred background, but within the .jpg and RAF everything was seemingly in focus instead. I ruined my photoshoot. Anyone know what setting is causing this, or if this is normal?…
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My tripod with Canon 5Dmk3 and 70-200 f2.8 fell during the outdoor part of a high school senior session. Yongnou strobe took the brunt of the fall, but 5Dmk3 lost part of hot shoe and pulled the tripod screw out.
So I started the next session with X-T2 and 50-140, which I had used for my family reunion and group photo of over 50 people this past weekend. Got through the beginning of the session and when I looked in the viewfinders it was just flashing up whatever ever the lens was seeing quite rapidly with sort of a hot spot in the middle. The Menu button wouldn't work nor the Q menu. Nothing I could do would stop the burst of image showing. Changed batteries, changed sd cards, changed lenses. Still the constant, rapid hot spot view of what was in front of the lens.
Finished the next two seniors with my XE2, which is the back-up camera to the back-up camera in my studio. Fortunately, I have a second XE2 so I still have a back-up camera. My retoucher prefers the Canon files and her workflow is based on that and is not happy now. lol.
Is there something that can be done or is this mean the camera needs to go to Fuji in Edison, NJ? Is it broken or is there something that will fix this?…
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Lens turbos have been getting a lot of chat lately, so thought I would post a couple photos I took with mine yesterday. Enjoy the bokeh (and my wife being fed up with my photo taking) :)
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I know that they are two very different cameras , but both were bought , new , with 27 and 16-50 for £420 .
Now hooked on Fuji , I am prepared to invest in a more up to date body .
I quite like the SLR styled X-T10 , but would it provide AF and IQ improvements over the X-Pro 1 and X-M1 ? I would not need the 24mp sensor of the latest models and it appears that the 16mp sensor is likely to be discontinued .
I may sell the X-M1 body , [ I just wanted the 16-50 ] to help fund the X-T10 ... I am content with the X-Pro as a rangefinder style camera .
There is some concern that I am being a bit blinded by the SLR style , when my two cameras are perfectly fine .
Thanks .
dee…
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Dragged round Fountains Abbey, Yorkshire, today by the girlfriend.... hey, doesn't that sound good, I'm seventy ;)
Just a few snaps X-T2 and the fabulous 16-55 2.8 WR lens ....
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Fuji X-T1 ISO 200, 1/180 second, 56mm lens, f2.8 heavily cropped
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Strictly an amateur , I am new to Fuji , I bought my new X-Pro 1 a year ago , it was a budget impulse buy @£168 plus a new £150 27mm lens which is perfect for me .
i needed something discrete and quality for a rare family trip to Malaysia . It was perfect for those street shots where tourists avoid .
At the time , I was considering a Panasonic LX100 , but much prefer the X-Pro and the simplicity of a prime lens . I guess all those years with a Minolta SRT and a 45mm f2 paid off !
I have just added a 16-50 , courtesy of a new X-M1 [ £162 without ancillaries ] , but new nothing about it .
Strangely , the zoom on the X-Pro seems to spoil the balance and shoulder bag convenience ... OK lust does not FEEL right , but that's not a reason is it ?
I love the X-Pro , the X-M1 , with added case / battery / strap is useful considering that superb sensor , but I wonder what I could be missing out on among the 16mp sensor offerings ?
I quite like the idea of an SLR styled camera - X-T10 ? , but is there another camera with better EVF and more unto date specifications ? I don't need the 24mp sensor .
Thanks
dee…
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My first effort at a long exposure (1 second).
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Walking behind the waterfall, the spray is everywhere. My X-Y2 was covered in a plastic raincoat, but the filter on the front of the lens was soon covered in spray. This photographer had no plastic raincoat and got thoroughly soaked to get this shot.
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The black sand beach had busloads of tourists in the daytime. I should have gone back at 2 am, when it was still light.
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Farming in the foothills.
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Taken on a sunny day last week.
Lovely location.
Appreciate any comments, hand held.
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We’re planning 100% on adding Fuji film profiles to Photo Raw
Hi All,
I just spoke with one of my contacts at ON1 yesterday and got the quote above. I posted what I know about it on my blog (this is same link as above)
Although ON1 has film presets, those are just for a vintage or stylized look and aren't the same as film profiles like you see in the Camera Calibration of Lightroom for raw files. ON1 plans to implement the latter.
This is good because it gives us an alternative to LR which doesn't do the best (and definitely not the quickest) job of processing X-Trans files.
ON1 has talked about Fuji profiles being a top request for awhile but now this is a definite confirmation of them being developed.
Part of my relationship with ON1 includes providing them feedback about how their products work with my Fuji files and gear and so far they continue to remain quite enthusiastic about supporting Fuji users.
Cheers,
Joel…
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All,
Does anyone have any experience with this lens adapted to Fuji X? I recently purchased a Pentax 100mm F/2.8 SMC M K Mount and I am not happy with the focus throw, it feels too long and too slow to me. I much prefer my Minolta f2 MD which seems to just snap into focus.
Can anyone tell me how the focus throw on the Konica 100mm F/2.8 Hexanon EE AR Mount feels?
Any other info on this lens would be appreciated.
Thank you for any info,
Michael…
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Tried to shoot with an adapted Nikon lens on my X-T2 for the 1st time ever. It would not fire and I couldn't find the menu entry to enable shooting without (XF) lens, like it is on the X-T1. I had the camera in fully manual, but no dice.
What was I doing wrong?…
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Been a long time since I took any pictures ... still I got myself a X-T2.
Here my recent decent result
X-T2 + 50-140
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I wish that Fuji would issue an EF-X20 Mark II...
I love its form factor, its user interface and its comparatively high power in relation to its size, but its present incarnation still has some important design flaws:

  1. The unit lacks a mechanical on/off switch; there's still a sizeable amount of battery depletion when storing the flash w/ full batteries. Store it for 3 weeks and the batteries will be empty. That's a serious shortcoming for a flash unit that will only be used occasionally, but is small enough for a backup solution to find a permanent home in many camera bags. Workaround: Insert a plastic tab between batteries and battery cover when storing the flash unit.

  2. The flash unit will switch off if the camera does auto-power down or is switched off, but won't turn back on if the camera is activated again. Instead, the flash unit needs to be powered up manually (Other Fuji flash units can do that!).

  3. Flash symbol in VF/LCD doesn't blink while "Test" light is blinking. That's somewhat irritating; I wonder if the current hot shoe interface would support this feature.

  4. Uses AAA batteries instead of AA, which makes for relatively short battery life and comparatively long recycle times. Using AA batteries may make the flash slightly bigger, but only by a small margin (see EF-20). This would be an acceptable price for faster recycle times.

  5. Slightly unreliable wiring in its hot shoe (I had one fail on me, requiring replacement). In its current design, DIY repair is impossible, and the relatively low unit price doesn't make a repair by Fuji economical.

I'm writing this because in theory, the EF-X20 is my dream flash unit as a carry-everywhere solution, but its shortcomings prevent it from finding a home in every Fuji X user's bag.
How do you feel about the EF-X20? Would it make sense to have an EF-X20 MkII?…
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At one point these Eider ducks were so far away I almost gave up on trying to photograph them. But eventually they swam closer. Sharpness of the 100-400 lens helped.
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Oops!
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I know it is a discussed topic already, but I found a good offer for a used 23 F1.4, pretty much at the same price of a new 23 F2.
I don't mind the size of the F1.4 on the XT-2 either, so the only reasons for preferring the F2 would be autofocus speed and WR.
Reviews and comments around the web seem contradicting on these two topics. So my question would be: is the difference in AF speed that significant on a XT-2? Has anyone tried both on it?
I also wonder how much I could mistreat the F1.4 while traveling, given the lack of WR…
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[​IMG]_DSF0293_1 by Michael Teresko, on Flickr
I've had this lens for a little while without using it very much. I pulled it out today to try on an X-Pro1 body I just got. It was probably at f/4 for this shot…
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Out for a celebration with some crazy cocktails. Superb low light tool. X-T2 jpegs. Literally the 3mb for mobile transfer compressed files. Doesn't really stand up to a heavy crop at ISO 12800 but fun to play with regardless.
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Ok, I confess for trying to write a click bate title. (Did it work?)
If you want to jump past the intro, scroll down to the "Interesting Bit".
I am referring to D.C. External Power, of course. I have the following items, which I have been testing with:

  1. X-T1 body with Battery Grip

  2. X-T2 body with Battery Grip

  3. External D.C. supply 9V dc

  4. V-Lock Lithium Anton Bauer battery, nominal 14.8V

My objective was to provide an external battery solution (for shooting video for extended periods), ideally using an V-Lock Lithium Battery (aka Anton Bauer battery).
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Typical V-Lock battery 14.8V Nominal DC output

I was primarily focused on doing this for the X-T2. The Battery grip for the X-T2 has a 9V dc input and comes with a mains adaptor. This can be used to charge the 2 batteries in the grip, but not to charge the single internal camera battery, which can be charged by connecting a USB3 cable to the camera.
The V-Lock battery supplies nominal 14.8V dc, so I purchased a variable DC-to-DC down converter from ebay:

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DC-to-DC down converter

This DC/DC converter has finely tune-able output voltage and also shows current drawn.
Now we come to the,
Interesting Bits
It seems that the X-T2 uses the external dc input for charging ONLY when the camera is turned OFF.
As soon as you turn ON the camera the current drawn drops to a fraction of the charging current of 1.65A which is drawn while the camera is OFF. I.e. even with external dc connected, shooting uses the battery and NOT the external power source!!! As soon as you turn off the camera, it will start recharging the grip's batteries.
The same applied to the USB3 external supply. Thus,
It is not possible to use the X-T2 with only external power source and no batteries installed! (Well, almost)
So I then grabbed my dc supply which I got for the X-T1, which also uses a 9V dc power pack, but delivers the power to the camera body via a dummy battery, which replaces the in body battery and has a 9V input tail. Problem - you cannot close the battery compartment door, unless you cut a slot for the external cable!!!
I then hooked up the dummy battery connector to the 9V dc converter, was able to operate both the X-T1 and the X-T2 in this way.
The downside of this stupid design by Fujifilm, is that you cannot run the X-T2 from external power if you want to leverage the benefits of the Battery Grip, such as Headphone Out connection, or Boost Mode operation.
Summary
If you want to power the X-T1 or X-T2 (or X-PRO1/2 or I guess any other Fuji X camera) from an external power source, e.g. for video or studio use, you have to supply 9V dc via a dummy battery into the body.
If you use the above described method, than you cannot use a Battery grip with it's other benefits…
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I'm really impressed with this lens. Close ups included.
Spyderco Roadie. Really like this little blade too.
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roadie
by john matsu, on Flickr
OOC Velvia with some added punch.
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XF-90mm f2 - 1/2400 - f2 - ISO 200
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