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Is anyone in European countries being impacted by enforcement of the General Data Protection (GDPR) that stated today?…
NEX 7 and Konica Hexanon 24/2.8
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Canon 7DMII + Sigma 150-600mm C set to 600mm
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Fuji X-H1
Canon FD 50mm f1.4 S.S.C.
K&F Concept FD-FX adapter
1 Riley 5-24-2018.jpg
2 Riley 5-24-2018.jpg
Recently a work colleague showed me his Leica M6 and I was so blown away by the crispness of the viewfinder that I sold an X-T2 to finance a purchase of a M4-P. After a few weeks I realised that I wasn't using my digital gear at all and, with summer coming, sold my other X-T2 and all my Fuji lenses to help finance a family holiday.
Then I thought - actually I'd rather like to have a decent digital camera with me for casual snaps and back-up while I'm on said holiday. Budget was limited, so I ordered a secondhand X-100 from a dealer. I have to say that my first impressions of the X-100 weren't favourable - it just seemed a bit clunky and unfinished. By the morning after its arrival I was starting to feel that I might have made a bit of a mistake,
Serendipity came to my rescue. On further testing it became clear that the camera was suffering from the dreaded SAB issue. A quick call to the dealer and the camera was collected and a refund was winging its way to my bank account. In the same hour I found a perfect condition X-100S on the auction site *at the same price I'd just had refunded for the original*! That arrived yesterday and the point of this post is that I am now fully in love with the hybrid OVF - it's amazing! Why didn't anyone tell me before?…
you sure those co-ordinates were right?
untitled (1 of 2)-6.jpg
XT 100T f2 at 3200 ISO…
Where farms and nature go hand in hand
Weteringse broek Teuge Netherlands
XF 100-400
XF 80 macro
XF 2x TC
In the second post of this topic more photos!
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I always use the battery grip which normally that gives me plenty of power.
But today the batteries in the grip ran out very quickly. I charged them the night before.
I have always charged the batteries while in the grip. And a friend told me that may be the problem.
The batteries are as old as the original release of the X-T2.
Is my habit of charging in the grip the issue, or are the batteries just wearing out?
Hi - I am not a Fujifilm owner at this time but have been seriously thinking about getting an X-T20 w/ 18-55 lens as a second camera for walking around, etc. A friend let me borrow his X-T2 with 35 mm f/2 lens and I took a bunch of photos (portraits, flowers, my dog running, etc) to see if the image quality would be satisfactory (my main camera is a Canon 6D. After looking at the photos on the computer, I have to say I am very disappointed. None of them were what I would call tack sharp....some were OK, but not outstanding. So now I am leaning away from going to a Fuji system. I am sure some of the issues were a result of my unfamiliarity with the camera, but then again I am an experienced photographer and I am thinking that if a camera is so complex to get all the settings right to get sharp photos it is probably not for me. I don't want to have to think about how all the settings (autofocus zone, face detection, eye detection, size of focus point, etc etc) need to be adjusted every time I just want to enjoy taking photos.
I am wondering if any of you could comment on the learning curve you experienced. Did you get good/great images right away, or did you have to figure a lot of settings out first?
Please do not interpret my post as Fuji bashing. I was really looking forward to having a camera that is much smaller than my rig as long as it has image quality that was somewhat close to my present system. Thanks for your thoughtful feedback!…
So I'm in the market to buy a few lavalieres for use in interview style videos with my XH-1. I need to be able to mic up two people and be able to adjust gain for both microphones.
I don't see multiple leveling options for multiple microphone inputs on the camera so I'm under the impression that an outboard device would be required in order to accomplish this..
I've been recommended two options for what I need to do (the first to include a additional TRRS to TRS adapter, not shown, to be able to use the device with a camera instead of a cell phone) This option is enticing due to the price and compactness of the entire package as well as being useful on the run using a phone if I wanted. Each mic alone is $70 so it's well worth the cost. I'm not sure if the main interface' includes options to adjust the gain of the actual mics however, it's unclear from the photos.. It may just sum both mics to mono which would not exactly be 'ideal'.
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The second option would be a dedicated preamp, essentially, however I'd need to buy two mics in addition to possibly another adapter and the price might skyrocket due to that unless cheaper microphones exist that I'm not aware of:
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What are your thoughts/recommends for doing this?
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Sorry of this is the wrong forum but I can't find a better place.
I'd like to attempt some landscapes with my 18-55 before investing in a lens specifically for it. I've looked at Flikr and Instagram and a lot of people get great results with this lens.
What I think I'm needing now is some kind of ND filter because my shots are really blown out. I do a lot of hiking up in the mountains around NC and it's usually pretty harsh mid day sun. Either the sky is to bright or the view/waterfalls are too dark.
Instead of investing in quality screw on filters I was thinking of picking up a kit like one of the Cokin sets. I looked at Lee kits but its just to much money to invest right now.
I was looking at this kit specifically
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I'd have to pick up an adapter which isn't to expensive. I figure if I end up picking up a lens more like a 10-24 I could use this as well.
What do you much more experienced photographers think?
X-T2 | XF80 macro | XF2xTC
In the second post of this topic more photos!
Likes: 5
Hello All,
photo made when I was waiting for the train
X-T2 and 16-55 2.8
Greetings Jakke
XT2N4060 v4 FF.jpg
Hi All, Probably missing something simple but has anyone else found the same issue: Using an X-Pro 2 (4.01) on Windows 7 Pro, X-Acquire, saving to a folder which is a Watched Folder for Auto Import in Lightroom CS6. Works perfectly, even if not as quick as the 2-3 seconds that I've seen reported. The issue is when I then use the same camera to X-Acquire running on a Macboook Pro:- the file transfer option in X-Aquire's preferences has no effect - it always transfers both Raw and Jpeg. The only way to prevent that is to ensure that the camera is set to only capture one file type. It's not a huge deal but an unnecessary glitch needing to reset the camera after a session. Have I missed something or is it a bug? Any help much appreciated. Thanks…
Just down the road from Brighton train station is a little side street, on both sides of the small road is covered in graffiti. X-T20 + XF 35mm f2. More in the reply.
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Seems the only way to tether the GFX 50s, with full control, is by using Lightroom and and Fuji X Acquire, or am I missing something. I recently switched from Capture One to Exposure X3, great program, no tethering option. I would hate to buy LR just to tether, let along a subscription. Also tried a work around version of C1, but that doidn't go well. I really wish at the very least Fuji would come out with a standalone version of tethering software but in the meantime I need a solution ASAP. This is a commercial level camera and I can't get a tethering option out of LR? Help!…
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Just curious if anyone will consider it. I think it would make complete sense for people with the X-H1 or maybe even X-T2, but as a X-T20 owner, it's hard for me to justify.
I've always been a fan of a 2-body setup, whether I carry both and not have to change lenses, or carry just the smaller one as an every-day carry. But historically they were significant in size difference.
What I like about the X-T100:
- flip out screen (I take a fair bit of selfies with my daughter)
- Bayer sensor usually means less fuss in post, although I don't do much post
- dedicated video record button
- smaller than X-T20
- gold colour :)
What I don't like about the X-T100:
- 4K only being 15fps
- less customizable buttons (the directional buttons are labelled...does that mean they're not customizable?)
- reviews say AF is not as good as X-T20
What are your thoughts...anyone interested in the X-T100 if they already have a Fuji body?…
Just a simple Landscape/Seascape snap taken at New York USA of the familiar Statue Of Liberty. Shot actually taken from the Staten Island ferry.
X-T1, 55-200mm Lens, 1/900th @ F7.1, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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For a time now I haven't been able to connect my x-t2 to the fuji app on my phone... I start the connection on my phone and camera, after as normal I get the options on my phone and I usually click "browse images" and after i usually wait and have to click "ok" on the camera then the images pop up on the phone, but for a few weeks now when I tried I never get the message on the camera to confirm "ok" to start the connection and show the images. Any one had this problem?…
A squarish cropped blueish one ☝️.
X-H1 + 35mm 1.4 @ 1/120 f5.6 ISO200
I do mainly astrophotography (AP). I am planning to do the classic AP "mod", i.e., remove the filter from the sensor assembly that blocks the Hydrogen-Alpha light.
If you had to pick between an X-A1 and an X-M1 -- to do the modification --which would you choose ???
I suppose it makes no difference, but then again, maybe it does. From a mechanical point of view, it is easier to disassemble the X-A1. But perhaps there are other issues I am not aware of.
I currently have 3 working cameras and 2 non-working cameras: three X-A1s and two X-M1s (which all told, I purchased for a total of $410). No lenses.
It's a bit of a gamble, but one which I consider doable. If it doesn't work, I won't be too bothered by it. If it does work, I save $300 and I get slightly better AP images. Besides, I may be able to use spare parts from the non-working cameras fix whatever I spoil when trying to do the modification.
Any advice is welcome…
I go to the forum b&w and it shows title ....I don't want to hit on the title to see the individual there a way for the photos to appear similar to the what's new page…
Im not too good at saying hello!
I started working in Photography back in the 70's after having my own 'bathroom' darkroom. It was the start of a 40 year career, something I feel very proud to have been involved in for so long. During that time I have see so many changes, some good and some sad. I have printed everything from B&W glass plates (very sharp in every way), 10x8, 5x4, karsh of Ottawa original negative etc through every conceivable stage till we finally reacted out digital era. Still not sure what to think about digital, love film!
Used all sorts from Sinar large format and every Nikon know to mankind. After decades I jumped ship to my new Fujifilm X-Pro 2 cameras and lenses, I love them.
Anyway, hello from damp Hertfordshire…
Hi, I have the 100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR + 1.4 convertor but there are times when this is simply not a long enough lens. There is plenty of talk regarding lenses but cant find anything about long lenses.
I need something a bit longer and wondered if anyone had used third party long telephoto lenses?
but at least I got a few decent shots of Upper Antelope Canyon…
Likes: 24
I am still learning this camera and have a question regarding unplanned “Star effect”:
Yesterday I did some long exposures (4 minutes) of night sky with some very strong point lights (street lights). Before I took “the 4 minutes” shot I did a shorter test shot. The test shot was at f4, where the long exposure was taken at f11. I noticed a huge star effect at f11 and none at f4. Therefore I did more test shots today and here is what I found (these are with GF 120mm lens, but yesterday I was shooting with GF 23mm: same result):
My question is this: Is this unique to Fuji cameras? Because I had 2 Canon cameras in the past and I do not recall this behavior. I had to put a star filter on the lens to get that effect…
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Fujifilm X-T100 , Press Release on May 24, 2018
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Overview - Features - Specifications - Product Views - Sample Images - Accessories - Support
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X-T100 Owner's Manual coming soon (june 2018)…
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Regardless of the body the Nikkor P 105/2.5 is a terrific lens. I do find it pretty cool however that a 50+ year old lens and a 7 year old body (which is ANCIENT for a digital camera) is still fun to use and produces some more than acceptable images.
CORRECTION: I had the lens wrong. I do love the Minolta 35-70 but this image is from the Nikkor P 105/2.5...which is ALSO a great lens. In fact, it's a classic.
I recently got a chance to go on a tour to some caves down here with some members of our local photog club, we were warned that there would be some parts with chest deep water or higher so I purchased one of those dicapac waterproof cases (which I didn't particularly care for), which I eventually stopped using and was just careful with the water crossings and used a drybag as well. It was very challenging to shoot on such low light environment with the 18-55 hand held, ISO was usually 6400-10000 all f2.8. I eventually switched to the 35f2 and the faster aperture definitely helped even thou 35mm wasn't the best focal distance for the setting. Some pics and more to follow in the reply.
The rare iso 800 with 18-55
Now ISO 8000 same lens (and heavy post process)
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My wife and I spent four days at the beginning May wandering around in the Owens Valley area of California, which is on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. We drove north from San Diego to Lone Pine, where we spent three nights. From there we explored around the Alabama Hills, along US-395, up into the Sierras to trailhead for Mt. Whitney, and a few other places. On our way home we detoured through Death Valley for a bit. You can read a bit about my stop at Star Wars Canyon in Please login or register to view links.
Ordinarily I prefer to shoot with primes, but for this trip I took the X-T2 with a newly-acquired XF10-24, and had the XF55-200 in my bag, as I knew I would want to compress some landscapes. I've not had the XF10-24 long at all, but I can say that based on this trip I do like it, as long as I don't have to carry it very far. The OIS works very well too; we stopped into a rather dark museum.
I'll put a few more images in the next post, and you can see more about the trip Please login or register to view links. There's also some cool pictures of a six-week old Amur Leopard cub at the San Diego Zoo on my blog, but those were not taken with the Fuji, so not posted in this forum…
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I know I've posted before on how I just don't feel the love of 24mm lenses that a lot of folks do (35mm FOV on FF) but I've spent quite a lot of time playing around with several and I have to admit I've come to like them. As far as I'm concerned a 24/35 combo works out pretty well for me most of the time with an occasional 50 thrown in now and again.
In my time playing with a number of 24's I've gone from thinking they were all pretty much the same and I wasn't interested to understanding that they all have their strengths and finding the right one meant taking a number of things into consideration.
The contenders:
Olympus OM 24/2.8 (tried both SC and MC)
Canon FD 24/2.8 SSC
Minolta MC 24/2.8 SI
Minolta MC 24/2.8
Minolta MD 24/2.8 (with the 55mm filter thread)
Nikkor N 24/2.8 (SC)
Konica 24/2.8 (AE f16 version)
I want to start off with saying that I think all of these are fine lenses and what's right for me is not necessarily right for anyone else (continued on next post)…
anyone doing this with just a screw on filter? How about focusing with it being so dark? I figure i can compose with the ovf.
Thanks in advance…