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No real details, but I just received an email from the Mint camera company that Rollei has partnered with them to build a version 3 of their Fuji Instax TLR. There is a kickstarter soon and hopefully more details about the camera. The version 2 of the TL70 was missing manual shutter speed control, or I would have purchased it long ago, hopefully this new camera will have good optics with real full aperture and shutter speed control. I'll paste a little of the email, there is no web page version because this is for email subscribers only, so you (may have) heard it here second:

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My grandson and granddaughter going to play
Fuji ex2 35mm…
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Link to the video for our shoot for Sorbet Magazine:

Ben :)
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I've previously stated my liking for Konica equipment and irregularly scan through eBay UK and if anything takes my fancy I'll maybe bid for it. I came across an ad for a Konica FT-1 but the lens in the title being sold with the camera didn't exist in the Konica database. However the lens in the photograph was a Konica 24mm f2.8. There were no bidders or watchers for the ad - I could've got it for £10. However I contacted the seller to point out his error and he confirmed the lens being sold as the 24mm and he cancelled the ad and re-listed it with a correct title. Upshot was I bid for it and won it on bid 9 - albeit for £32. This is about 1/3 to 1/4 the price the lens normally goes for. The lens in question has a ding on the rim so is not in excellent condition - but it'll be my next project - adding to the Konica 28/40/50/135's I already have. I really have to stop looking at eBay and Gumtree.
One thing I'd say perturbs me as a 62 year old - there's a significant number of photographer grandad's that appear to have passed away judging by the ads on eBay :rolleyes::eek:
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Just a simple tourist type snap taken at Brighton Sussex UK of an Ornate Lamp Post that I found attractive.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens, 1/680th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Coast of Pacific at Victoria, British Columbia, on a bleak February day: there's a small flock of brants on the rocks in the foreground... :)
_DSF7514 copy.jpg
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About three inches tall, these are one of our earliest Spring wildflowers.
Fuji X-T1, Vivitar Series 1,90mm.f2.5 macro @f11, 1/180 sec.
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In another thread contributors are getting really technical debating LR v Capture 1. Much too involved for one of my limited capabilities. But the general consensus appears that LR isn't very good. Seems it can't resolve the twiddly bits, foliage in particular.
untitled (3 of 3).jpg
So 'The Bird Watcher" 1:1 crop LR Classic CC raw conversion , touch of contrast and clarity, .from an image shot with the 18mm-55mm lens. 400 ISO.
And of course this image is from a 900kb file, the original is a bit over 50 Mb
Incidentally this crop is from the extreme edge of the image, not bad from a lens many believe isn't good enough.;)
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No special message behind this photo other than I liked the symmetry of the three buildings
Pots 1.jpg
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New Goldendoodle pup. Taken with XE-1/35mmF1.4, 60th@ISO 1250
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Taken with XE-1/35mm f1.4(f8, 60th, ISO 250
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about to go on a dive trip. I've been experimenting with a red filter on my x-t20 while snorkeling and on one dive. Anyone have any other tips like changing white balance for good diving photos? I do not have a torch or strobe for the housing as of now. Thanks!…
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Hello guys. Has anyone ever experience an issue, where you took your Fuji out for whole day shoot, and when you came home you found dozens if not hundreds of completely dark frames being taken without you knowing about it?
Let me perhaps give some perspective on what happened. Recently I took a workshop of shooting wild birds of prey. I was shooting on Battery#1 with no problems. Having use continual autofocus and burst mode the battery run out of juice rather quickly. When it did I inserted a new battery, took some shots and then put camera away in a backpack as we went for a lunch break. After lunch we were about to continue with shooting when I noticed that the camera would not turn on. I tried it several times, On, Off, On, Off,... nothing. I thought... what the heck? So I changed the battery#2 for #3 and camera turned on immediately. I thought what a piece of garbage this battery was. Battery was warm, asi if it was used a lot. But when I came home after the whole day of shooting I checked the shots and among all of the good ones were over 500 totally dark shots. I assume they are dark because of lens cap placed on the lens. Now all this dark shots were taken between 04/21/2018 12:16 PM to 04/21/2018 13:29 PM, so little over hour, that could account for lunch when X-T2 was placed in a backpack.
I suspect that this is what drained the battery #2, but I honestly don't remember hearing camera shutter taking any pictures. Mechanical shutter most definitely did not fire hundred of shots without me hearing or knowing about it.
This seems like complete mystery to me.
Has anyone encounter similar bug/issue/problem?
What is your opinion on what might have happened? I'm curious what you guys think.
It happend with this setup X-T2, Xf90mm, RAW+JPEG, Continual Low, Continual AF, ISO AUTO, Shutter speed Auto, 3rd party battery.
x-t2 black shots issue 1.jpg
x-t2 black shots issue 3.jpg
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Hello all,
does anyone knows what kind of file is a RAF.~1~?
I backup my pair raf/jpg photos on a Toshiba HD with a SD reader inside and on some photos I get a JPG, a RAF and a RAF.~1~ files. This last one I don't know what is it. Could I delete as I already have the RAF file also?
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Shot this happy fellow in our Russian Olive tree. I think he was happy he found the trove of peanuts my wife leaves every morning for the backyard critters.
Squirrel Joke.jpg
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I have a Godox 350F for my X-Pro2. I also have a Meike MK 320F, which does not seem to work too well with the X-Pro2 and a Yongnuo 460ii.
I would like to take Photos with 1 flash on camera and another from sideways or behind the object. I would like to take those shots in daylight.
I assume, I could not trigger the second flash with the on camera flash in broad daylight, especially when its placed behind the object. Or is this possible?
If it is not possible with the gear I already have, what would I need to buy for this set up? A 2nd Godox 350F plus a remote trigger for the hotshoe with a flash-hotshoe for the on camera fash? At this stage I am still experimenting and would prefer a simple and reasonably cheap option.
What do I do?
Thanks for any advice on this…
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Shoshone Falls during spring runoff. Spectacular and actually higher than Niagara Falls.
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The pools of water in the foreground caught my eye when I drove past in the morning; I made a mental note to come back at sunset.
Fuji X-T2/ 23mm f2/ ISO 200/ 1/7s/ f8
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Please forgive me if this has been asked before. I couldn't find it anywhere. I have recently started video recording with my X-Pro2 and I am wondering if it is possible to snap a photo while recording?…
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Messing around with one light portraits, used my Godox 685f speedlite on stand with umbrella . 35mm Aperture f2 , SS 1/250 , iso 100. Thanks to my reluctant model/wife.
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Would you buy an X-H1 and grip for $800 USD if you traded in your X-T2 and battery grip? Give some justifications for your answer.
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I'm fed up of spending a day on the street only to find out that more than half of my images are either fuzz or missing.
AF Lock seems to work only when it's in the mood. I haven't gotten around to buying it wine and flowers yet, but if it would help, I would do so. The other options so far have been worse. The focusing, or lack there of, is driving me around the effing bend.
If someone has a work-around, I'll send you the wine and flowers.
Before I was seduced into buying the X100T as the next best thing since a Leica for street photography, I owned an X-E1 with a Voigtlander 21mm f4 on the front of it. That X-E1 + 21mm was a great combo for street photography, but I allowed a load of marketing drivel to induce me to dump that camera + lens to buy an X100T, y'know because it was the best thing, not named Leica, for street photography.
I beg to differ.
The AF is useless as its too slow and requires the half press, followed by full press of the shutter release for it to work. Don't follow that script precisely and you don't get anything. I shoot fast on instinct. Apparently that possibility wasn't in the designers mind when they wrote the code. Ya, I know all about AF shutter release priority. Neither work as advertised. I've tried both 'RELEASE' and 'FOCUS' options. Can't tell the difference between fuzz and fuzz.
Then we have coma mode. Take five shots in a row and there's nothing on the card as the AF was off smoking a joint. BTW, the firmware is up to date. I'm currently trying the "high performance" mode to see if that keeps it out of coma mode.
I've set up zone focusing in advance, but the X100T's fly-by-wire focusing ring is so easily moved that more than half of my shots are a bad blur. If I have to refocus every shot, then there's no point to having the capability to use zone focus. Of course, thanks to a lack of distance markings on the fly-by-wire ring, I can't tell if it has been moved just by looking at it. I'm down to electrical tape on the focusing ring as a solution. Ideally it should require more than a glancing zephyr to move the ring.
I set up the AF Lock so that it stays on when the AE/AF Lock button is pushed. The AE Lock is off. Sounds like that would solve the problem, but it doesn't. The camera continues to use AF even with the lock is on.
So bottom line here after that long rant: is there any way to ensure that AF Lock is actually on full time, until I either turn the camera off or hit the AE/AF button a second time? I'm fed up with guessing and then finding out that I've guess wrong, or it was just not in the mood that day…
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Using X-T20 + 18-55mm
Love this camera !!!
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I've owned both these lenses for a few years now, and have never really used the stock lens hoods. They are both just too large and bulky for my needs -- they really stick out when shooting people and can produce the wrong reactions, and take up quite a bit of space in my small travel bag. So I quickly replaced both of them with one screw-on metal hood (pictured on the left in photo below). It's quite discrete, provides some protection from flare and for the front element, and fits both lenses. But I've never been fully satisfied with it -- it uses the filter threads and its annoying to switch it between the two lenses. So I finally decided to go ahead and modify the original hoods. I figure: I love both lenses and am unlikely to sell them, and since I won't use the hoods as is I might as well risk ruining them. How did it turn out? More photos in the comments!
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Yesterday, my lady and I had breakfast with our friends Deb and Buster. They showed up in their all steel, 1944 Jeep which Buster restored/modified over a period of years and is now for sale. As Sharon and I always have a camera with us on this day, in the trunk of the motorcycle, we had one of my X-T1’s and 18-55’s. After breakfast I suggested that Buster and I look for a suitable location without distracting background and take a few photo’s of the Jeep for him to use in his advertisements. The ladies decided to stay back and relax on some chairs in the shade near the restaurant while Buster and I went about our task. It was very bright and already 93 degrees out in the desert and still climbing when we did this shoot. Though it was difficult to see in the bright sunlight, and the water dripping off my forehead into my glasses did not help, the flip screen was invaluable in taking the under carriage shots.
Busters Jeep 009-3.jpg
Busters Jeep 013-2.jpg
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I've found numerous threads like this before and it always makes for an interesting read even though it inevitably boils to personal preference and there is no one right answer. I'm looking for ideas about which 2-3 lenses to bring on a trip to Greece this June. In my mind there are two options (but technically there are many combos to consider):
1. 16mm f1.4 + 35mm f1.4
2. 14mm f2.8 + 23mm f2 + 50mm f2
I like option 1 because it's only two lenses and they are both outstanding. I like option 2 because it offers more flexibility and I love the 14mm even more than the 16 lately (I like to go wide). Either option will fit into my camera bag nicely, but if I start mixing and matching or try to add more then things get tight. I don't switch lenses on the go very often but I like to fit a different one now and then and force myself to make the best of it for a morning, afternoon or evening.
Some background info to consider:
I shoot with an X-T2 and used the 16mm and 35mm (f2 version) exclusively for about a year and a half before adding some more lenses. I took a couple trips with those lenses and was satisfied for the most part, but when I got the 14 i realized that I really love it for sunsets and I think I prefer it to the 16 due to size/weight/dramatic FOV, etc. The 23mm f2 is a relatively new lens for me and I haven't used it a lot yet but I thought it would be especially useful for travel. I used an X100T before getting the X-T2 and I like the focal length although that camera just wasn't the best one for me personally. I really like the 50mm f2 and I use it in place of a 35 sometimes for picking out details and isolating subjects, although I rarely shoot portraits or people with it.
I mostly shoot landscapes, nature, sunsets and street scenes/details. I rarely shoot portraits, food, or interiors. I plan to leave the tripod and filters at home this time because although I like to use them for landscapes/sunsets/long exposures at home, it's not that fun lugging them around on a trip and my girlfriend gets impatient. I basically want a good walk around kit with one extra lens in the bag and maybe one back in the room for variety on different days. We'll be visiting a couple islands and then in Athens for 2 nights. Thoughts?
PS: I don't have any zooms and I don't plan to buy any other lenses before the trip. I still have the 35 f2 but prefer the 1.4. Eventually one of them will have to be sold off…
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Just a simple candid street style snap taken at Canterbury Kent UK of a couple sitting on a bench in the park enjoying the spring sunshine.
I'm also working on a personal project called Faceless and this will be one of the shots included.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens, 1/640th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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Hi all,
I took this image on my X100F backstage last night. The current crop is pretty close to SOOC, I just straightened it a little bit. My thought was that I liked the elegance of trumpet player and martini glass as reflected in the mirror, juxtaposed with the messiness of the dressing room door, trombone case, wine glass, and NYC view out the window. The shadows and lines leading the eye to him (and sorta reinforced in the martini glass) were of course good too.
Is all the other stuff just distracting? Is there a better way to crop this? I can't really get the full diagonal line without getting the trombone case, so I left it in, but there definitely could be a better option available. I'm curious what others would recommend with this.
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Just traded in my Nikon D750 & gear on the weekend for an X-T2 w/ 18-135 lens. Lots to learn but so far, love the feel and weight difference of this beast. I'm excited to learn and just posted my first questions in post processing section - appreciate the help.
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The company might do better by including Fuji RAW in their software.
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Hello all - in advance, please forgive the 'maybe' silly questions regarding software - hoping this is the correct forum. I was a Nikon guy, and they always provide a disc. I just traded my Nikon gear on the weekend for an X-T2 / 18-135 lens, and noticed no disc. I will admit, I'm a Jpeg guy but will learn raw soon. Anyways for now, what should I download from the Fuji site to categorize/view ? ( I use a PC/Windows)
In the Application section: X-raw studio? (I suppose I will need this soon), X-Acquire?, PC Autosave?
In the Viewer section: My Finepix Studio?, Viewer Installer ?, Viewer Updater ?
Please comment - many thanks.
* I will say, love the feel/size and weight vs. my D750 that is gone * I have plenty to learn though…
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I bought my T2 yesterday and finding it hard to manually set the aperture despite following the manual. I use the 18-55mm lens. I have turned on the aperture settings to manual at the lens. However, when I goto the Button/dial settings, the "aperture setting" is grayed out.
How do I set aperture manually? Appreciate any help…
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Street scene, Victoria, British Columbia...
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Fan Tan Alley, Chinatown, Victoria, British Columbia...
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Trying a Soviet lens gain, a Jupiter-8 2/50 which is a copy of an earlier Zeiss Sonnar. Biggest bonus might be the slim adapter for the M39 mount. Image quality is okay, but lacking compared to the better M42 Zeiss or Asahis. There might be a large quality variant between the individual copies.

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The lens
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F2 - quite soft and low contrast
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Dir coating- specifically slide die curtain
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I took my new Fuji 10-24 out for a day last weekend to try it in various situations. So far, I like it.
There are few more images in the first reply…