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I've purchased the Minolta 100mm 2.8 Macro (1986)
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It has a sony A mount from what can I tell and doesn't seem to have an aperture ring.
Can anyone recommend an adapter for a Fuji x mount?…
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When this high contrast scene in downtown Vancouver presented itself, I staked it out for a while waiting for the right person to hit the right spot. It then took a bit of work editing to my satisfaction, but that's half the fun.
I started off in silver Efex. I think I used the Low Key 1 setting, which preserved some of the shadow detail. I then finished it off in Lightroom 6. The background building was dark enough that it was easy to paint over and use the clone tool to hide some distracting highlights.
Shot with X-T1 and 18-55.
Thanks for looking.
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Taken with the 18-135mm lens @ 135mm and f/5.6
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When using non-GF lenses, I realize you will be forced to use manual focus with the GFX, however, do you get any type of in-focus confirmation as with most other systems?…
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Accidently deleted a folder with lots of raf files in. Not in the recycle bin. Does anyone know of a recovery sw that will find raf files. The ones I have found are limited to jpegs and tiffs.
Windows 10 operating system.
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Took this last december at San Elijo state beach. A cold front was swiftly moving in from the east just about the time the sun was going down. You could instantly feel the difference in temperature.
I only had an iPhone I wish I had a better camera with me but his shows the incredible colors as the front moved in.
Cardiff Sunset.jpg
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We had a perfect sunny day today for the pond skimmers. For this project, I used X-RAW Studio to do the heavy lifting on my post processing, and I'm growing quite fond of this application. I love the split-screen workspace and the batch processing.
This year's session was with the X-T2, while previous years I'd used the X-T1. I realized a nice improvement in focus tracking with the new body, and the 56mm f/1.2 prime was fast and snappy in focus tracking.
One of the better dressed competitors.
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This gentleman showed good form across the 95' long pond and made it to the end!
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There is currently 20% off selected sellers on the Australian eBay site, which includes the X-H1

They also have other bodies, lenses and accessories as well, so I might purchase a few extra batteries…
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I use camera remote and it works reasonably but I have 2 questions about camera remote:

  • x-pro2 firmware 4.01

  • camera remote

  1. How can I bracket exposures with camera remote?

  2. How can I set the shutter speed through camera remote?

Thank you
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Shot with an X-T1 and silver 13 blade Helios 44-2
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My main GFX interest is landscape images, and whilst the 32-64mm lens is on the camera a lot, I would put in a plea to Fujifilm for a slightly longer lens zoom. I'm thinking of the equivalent of mamiya/phase's 75-150mm lens. I don't need it to be really fast, so f4-4.5 is fine, just so long as it is sharp from corner to corner. (I am going to trial some older manual focus mamiya lenses in the 120-200mm range as I'm not sure what would be most useful to me, hence the convenience of a zoom.) This also wouldn't interfere with the specific purpose 110 portrait, 120 macro or forthcoming 250 telephoto lenses.
Pretty please Fujifilm!!…
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I've had this image rattling around in my mind for quite awhile. I work in construction, fire protection to be specific, and have always wanted to photograph some of the things that I routinely wear or use at work. Sometimes i feel that the job can be agonizing or at least difficult physically. Photography is a great creative outlet for me and provides fulfillment that the job can't seem to deliver. Photographing my boots, hard hat and gloves is a kind of personal juxtaposition for me. Thanks for looking.
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As many of you know I'm new to this forum and to the Fuji-X world, but not to the photography world, since I've been doing this since 2009, first with Nikon, then with Sony. This is one of my first images with my X-A10. This comes form them RAW / RAF and I slightly cropped a light post on the left and tried to get rid of distortion too. All this was done with SILKYPIX that I downloaded from Fuji's website. I used this program because my main PP software doesn't open RAFs (I have Capture One for Sony, which works only with Sony ARW, unfortunately).
I wanted to ask advices for better setting and shooting with my new Fuji.
Thanks in advance for those who decided to answer to this post.
PS. I used Watermark Plus for watermarking.
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My settings: +1 shad, +2 hi, Nr-4, no grain, sharp 0
Impressed with the natural grain and the DR possible. Something about it!
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a casual photo of an old friend of mine. x-t1, 18-55
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At times, I want to do B&W mode with my X-A1. (I use it mainly for astrophotography). The camera seems to work perfectly in B&W. No complaints. On the contrary, nice resolution, etc.
I was interested in knowing (for processing purposes with an astrophotography processing program) how the camera manages to "ignore" the Bayer matrix.
The reason I ask is the following:
In astrophotograhy it is sometimes useful to capture, for example, a "blue channel" ONLY by using a special filter called a "narrowband" OIII filter. In that case --- with a blue filter in place --- is the camera:
A) using all the pixels to register the all the "blue" photons hitting the sensor
B) is the camera registering only the photons (which of course are all "blue") that find their way to a pixel covered by a "blue" portion of the Bayer matrix ???
I guess you can see where I'm going with this.
If the answer is "A", I get better resolution.
If the answer is "B", 75% of the pixels on the sensor are rendered useless because the red and green portions of the Bayer matrix will block the "blue" photons…
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Hello all from Mindanao in the Philippines.
I am a retired American who now holds a Permanent Resident visa in this country. I have decided to try digital photography & editing, jumping in with both feet and a used X-T2 and 18-55 zoom as well as a new X-E3, 16mm, & 27mm. Next, God willing, is Capture One Pro 11.
40-50 years ago I lived & breathed photography, at various times as a custom B&W lab printer, camera store salesman & manager, and regional sales rep (Beseler-Topcon). Even a BFA in photography. Then, grad school & a career change & photography mostly fell by the wayside except for point & shoots with drug store processing.
Packing to move here I came across some old prints & a few 35mm & 120 roll film cameras. Why not try again, I thought, you loved it then—and more than any line of work since then. And besides, I have time on my hands and there are lots of cool new cameras & lenses! So here I am, in over my head with almost everything I once knew nearly useless, trying to learn anew with all the benefits of an aged body & weak vision.
Thank you for being here…
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Philippines is hosting the 9th Pyro Musical Competition and me and some friends went last night to watch Taipei vs UK. Im not sure which country it is with the photos im posting so pls accept my apologies. :)
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Oh dear......Oh dear dear dear.
Well it's said it's a woman's perogative to change their about sexual equality?
I have always advocated JPEG, in Part 1 of this thread it was discussed at length. In fact I ended up deciding to shoot bracketed simulation both raw and JPEG.....stupid or what?
And bear in mind LR is so low, talk about paint drying.
My LR is on subscription and I assummed that it would be updated as and when automatically , it isn't. So for me a very complicated operation, up load the latest version and........
WOW, like greased lightening, raw files loaded in a blink, great lets have a play.
First load a JPEG, 14.4 Mb, have a play, no cropping just a few adjustments and load and reload a couple of times, then I did something for the first time, checked the edited file size, 13.2 Mb, Oh dear. Lets try raw, of course whatever you mess about with still around 50Mb. Hence with the LR now being on steroids a cunning plan emerged.......JUST SHOOT RAW.
Snowing outside so yet another kitchen sink snap.
untitled (1 of 1).jpg
untitled (1 of 1)-9.jpg
Only problem is file size.
I shoot very few pictures, a day's shooting maybe a dozen or so, say 6 keepers. But saving a raw file plus the edited TIFF comes to about 200Mb, seems a lot. I have an Mac with 2Tb of storage and a further 4Tb in a La Ice, haven't got much of a clue except that would seem a lot or should I try to reduce the file size with some sort of compression. Another thing is, I save each image twice, in the Mac and back up in the external unit, so it works out about 400 Mb per snap.
P.S. and Fuji Studio raw has been the trash can. :)
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Hello all,
I cannot figure out how to set up my X-T2 so it does the same focus assist zoom as the X-E3. I think I have set both camera menus exactly the same but this problem persists.
Relatedly, I cannot get either camera to provide a split image that looks like the one in the Instruction Manual. That might work best for my aged eyes & it's also what I learned to use decades ago with both range-finders and SLRs. (I also posted this 2nd question on the X-E3 forum.)
Thanks in advance--
Max M…
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Hello all,
First, I am really a newbie but "have insufficient privileges to post" on that Forum. But I can post here--how do I get those privileges?
I cannot manage to get split image to work on my new X-e3 with either the 27mm or 18-55mm lenses, in Manual mode or anywhere else. I'm not sure what I'm not doing but part of what's confusing is that there seem to be so many ways to set a control in one place and unset or over-ride it somewhere else. That may be my problem. Of course, open to any suggestions!
Max M…
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I know many of you who experience really bad snow and cold weather will be laughing in your cups this morning! But at 0C, I don' like it at all, so I wish the beast from the east would go home and let me warm up a bit. :D
mini beast.jpg
X-H1 + 35mm 1.4 @ 1/80 f5.6 ISO200…
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A lot of view modes on our fujifilm camera, but still not the good one. When will there be an update that the LCD is used for the Q and menu function when using the EVF/OVF only. I'm only use the EVF/OVF to shoot, but when I want to adjust something inside the Q menu, I have to switch the view mode, adjust and press the view mode a few times again to use the EVF. Playback is supported on the LCD, but still not Q and menu…
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Grabbed this a few weeks ago when noticed a glow in my front room
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I sensed he wasn't really paying attention to our conversation. :D
X-T1 10-24
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Parliament station - Melbourne
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I'm sure that there is lots of comparison of the two lines above. I have the 56mm lens and soon will have the 60mm lens. I don't know if I need both? I have had the 56mm for sometime, its nice but I find it as a hit or miss thing for me.
What should I do for making comparisons? Weight, sharpness speed of focus?
Any suggestions will be helpful.
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I actually live here, but OOB is a huge tourist destination during the warmer months. I shot this photo in November 2015 after most of the town had closed down for the season, which is why the Ferris Wheel doesn't have any gondolas on it. Just came across it while doing some backups and thought I'd share.
Fuji X-E1 w/18-55
@19mm f5.6 ISO200
Three-Shot HDR in Adobe Photoshop
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On my iMac

  1. FastRawViewer 1.4.3 can open both compressed and uncompressed raw files

  2. Luminar 2018 1.1.1 (3090) can open both compressed and uncompressed raw files

  3. On1 Photo Raw 2018.1 (12.10.4938) can open only open uncompressed raw files

  4. Lightroom 6.14 (perpetual license) cannot open any X-H1 raw files (without changing the IXIF data to fake camera)

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My Fotasy. Nikon to Fuji adapter fell apart where tbe iris control is. I am looking for a better quality replacement. Any suggestions?
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Burgers’ Safari and Rimba the Malaysian tropical rain forest
Burgers' Zoo / Netherlands
X-T2 | XF100-400 | XF1,4xTC
Part 1 The jewels of the bush > here: Please login or register to view links
In the second post of this topic more photos!
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can you guys share your setting with provia?i mean with the s tone h tone color sharpness etc
just for reference:)