This site is supported by the advertisements on it, please disable your AdBlocker so we can continue to provide you with the quality content you expect.

Fashion show shot with XT2 not nearly as sharp as 5DIII. What to do?

Discussion in 'X-T2, X-T1, X-T20, X-T10' started by cathy, Feb 12, 2017.

  1. bobbyzfx

    bobbyzfx Premium Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2014
    Messages:
    1,192
    Likes Received:
    213
    Location:
    SF Bay Area

    -Return to Top-

    I moved from Canon to Fuji due to weight and having a smaller camera for day to day use. For serious stuff I still have my 5dmk3, 35L, 85L and 300mm f2.8 IS. When shooting sports, I will take canon but Fuji is also working out except no longer prime.

    These are tools, and not that hard to move from using one tool to another. I used to shoot 2 handed 1 series body. So used to buttons at different places. Same with AF settings. Now with XT2, your AF settings are like your 5dmk3. I still don't get why it is not working at what you doing. You are NOT shooting low light. Low light is ISO6400, f2/f2.8, 1/60 or so. Yours are ISO800 tops. Now if I were shooting indoor cheer, dance events, I will still take 1 series with 200mm f2 prime.

    But if Fuji doesn't work, don't sweat too much either. Get back to Canon if you think your work is suffering. Simple. If it was me, I will rent Canon 5dmk3/70-200mm f2.8 and do side by side.
     
  2. cathy

    cathy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2017
    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    9

    -Return to Top-

    I am shooting very low light. Not sure where you got the ISO 800 tops info from...maybe the first image I posted which was out of focus? Sorry I am unable to go back and check...internet too slow here.

    My recent settings are ISO 3200 or 6400 f2.8 and MAYBE 1/100 sec if I am lucky. I have been posting that everyone else is somehow able to shoot at ISO 800-1000 with fast shutter speeds but not me. According to my camera there's no way I can get to those settings manually without being severely underexposed.
     
  3. cathy

    cathy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2017
    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    9

    -Return to Top-

    I'm not sure if I like the camera but the people here almost make it worth the effort to stick with Fuji :) Thanks for the therapy. I need it!

    As you mentioned the way to go would DEFINITELY have been to hang on to my Canon gear and gradually shift over but I was so excited by all the articles I was reading that I sold first in anticipation of the XT2 being announced and ordered the camera the minute (literally) that it was released. In hindsight a mistake.

    I am posting an update (below)
     
  4. cathy

    cathy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2017
    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    9

    -Return to Top-

    After swearing that I had spent enough time struggling through shooting fashion shows I planned to put my camera away and go to a park yesterday but instead I attended a Fashion and Design school graduation with a full day of student fashion shows to have another day trying to work out my camera issues.

    I shot completely manually as suggested and fortunately these student shows were less fancy/professional and therefore had a great deal more light.
    I was able to shoot at settings of 1/250 sec f5 ISO 1600 and 1/500 sec f 3.6 ISO 1600 for example.
    Even then... were the shots perfectly sharp? Not as far as I can tell. Some were better than others and in general better than in the lower light of previous days.
    I used both S and CL drive modes to see if there is any camera shake happening. I held my breath. I was able to stand and be at a higher angle to the models (another plus) so I spread my legs like a tripod. I think I did everything I could possibly do to improve my shots.

    At this point I am not 100% sure how sharp sharp is!!!
    I was often zooming in to check sharpness in playback after shooting...should I be able to see each eyelash?
    If anyone has any low light fashion show or similar shots not shot in a studio or controlled environment I'd love to see a zoomed in face in focus to compare with mine. I asked to see shots that other photographers were taking on the days I was having problems and even some of theirs looked a bit soft to me. Maybe I'm expecting too much? I've gotten some very sharp shots in daylight but nothing I've shot indoors seems to be as sharp.

    I will continue to work on this and greatly appreciate everyone who has taken the time to help me!
     
  5. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2011
    Messages:
    11,630
    Likes Received:
    2,209
    Location:
    Oliva, Valencia, Spain

    -Return to Top-

    Inch pebbles eventually make feet and yards.
    We have all had to go through the experience of learning the differences which are many between the Canon/Nikon setups we had and the Fuji setup that we have now. Some of the differences are small and other things are very large.
     
  6. Greg_E

    Greg_E Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2012
    Messages:
    2,082
    Likes Received:
    234
    Location:
    USA

    -Return to Top-

    How do images look taken in daylight? And maybe daylight on a tripod or other support?
     
  7. bobbyzfx

    bobbyzfx Premium Member

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2014
    Messages:
    1,192
    Likes Received:
    213
    Location:
    SF Bay Area

    -Return to Top-

    Surprising a fashion show with that bad light IMHO. How can everyone else be able to shoot ISO800-1000 and XT2 gives you severe underexposure. Light is a light. And even with minor differences in how the ISO is tested between Canon, Nikon and Fuji, the resulting exposures would be same. I have 5dmk3, XT1 sitting next to me and have done all the tests using a light meter. Honestly check your camera to see if something wrong with it though I doubt it. You can even take a shot with your phone camera and see how the exposure looks and compare with your XT2 using same exposure settings.
     
    CFC1 and Dirk Offringa like this.
  8. CFC1

    CFC1 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2014
    Messages:
    59
    Likes Received:
    40
    Location:
    Northern Ireland

    -Return to Top-

    I can't believe that 6 weeks after the first post the situation has still not been resolved one way or another! I shoot a couple of fashion shows a year and have never encountered "ISO 6400, f2.8 and MAYBE 1/100 sec if I am lucky".
    As an extreme example, I was shooting at an event a couple of weeks ago and the light was extremely low. No overhead lights at all. The whole thing was lit by 2 spotlights. Really gloomy. Not the best shot in the world, but it gives an idea. This was shot with a Canon 7d at ISO 3200, 1/1000th sec at f2.8.... I could have shot it at 1/500th sec at ISO 1600 and got the same result as the models weren't moving that fast....

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2017
  9. CFC1

    CFC1 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2014
    Messages:
    59
    Likes Received:
    40
    Location:
    Northern Ireland

    -Return to Top-

    It was dimmer than this in past years, but this was the lighting at the last autumns Belfast fashion show. My settings on a Canon 6d were ISO 1250, 1/320th sec at F3.2...

    [​IMG]

    and this at the same settings ... ISO 1250, 1/320th sec at F3.2...

    [​IMG]

    I only shoot as a hobby, so pics aren't fantastic, but I've posted them so that you can get an idea of the different light levels and subsequent settings. Hope it helps.

    If you are adamant that you know how to use the Fuji in these situations, then I would get the camera checked out.
     
  10. CFC1

    CFC1 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 13, 2014
    Messages:
    59
    Likes Received:
    40
    Location:
    Northern Ireland

    -Return to Top-

    Finally, here's a 100% zoom on model Thandi's face from the previous shot. Quality would depend on the camera sensor and other technical stuff that I don't know about... but certainly with the Canon 6d, it isn't going to resolve single strand of hair at that distance and ISO but it's not bad. Then again, are you really gonna print a picture like this at 30x20 inches that often? ...

    [​IMG]
     
  11. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2011
    Messages:
    11,630
    Likes Received:
    2,209
    Location:
    Oliva, Valencia, Spain

    -Return to Top-

    We really need to see some images from cathy so we can judge exposure.
    Please post ISO, shutterspeed and aperture.

    Without seeing images we are guessing at words.

    The ability to get the camera to autofocus relies on the AF box to being on the intended focus point. On the XT2 the AF is definitely fast enough, IMHO this isnt true when using the XT1 but it may be a question of light levels.
     
  12. Dirk Offringa

    Dirk Offringa Premium Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2013
    Messages:
    463
    Likes Received:
    203
    Location:
    France

    -Return to Top-

    The pictures submitted by the OP were made using zone-focussing. There was no autofocus involved....

    With a 16-55mm OIS? If you don't get sharp results with those settings then there's most definitely something wrong with either the lens or the body.
     
    jknights likes this.
  13. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2011
    Messages:
    11,630
    Likes Received:
    2,209
    Location:
    Oliva, Valencia, Spain

    -Return to Top-

    Zone focusing is not something that needs to be done unless you are shooting remotely. I think the OP needs to be more methodical in the approach to the two problems, exposure and focus!
     
  14. cathy

    cathy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2017
    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    9

    -Return to Top-

    I have been using autofocus almost exclusively
     
  15. cathy

    cathy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2017
    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    9

    -Return to Top-

    I'm still traveling another five days. Finally have decent wifi but not the time to start pulling out hard drives, importing to LR etc so let's continue once I return home. I probably won't be shooting another fashion show for a year so no hurry!

    I very much appreciate the examples submitted. This is what I have wanted to see. Let me first say that I ran into the one guy who was shooting with Fuji backstage. He had an XT1 and got some great shots backstage but said the few runway shots he took were also out of focus due to low light.

    No offense to CFC1 but that Max Mara shot looks as soft as mine and it's shot with Canon.
    The second shot is in light that is WAY brighter than the conditions I have been shooting in. It looks sharp on my phone but again it's shot with Canon. I KNOW that a DSLR can get good shots in a low light fashion show. I was sitting with 100 photographers all using Canon/Nikon and getting great shots. What has yet to be proven to me is how good the shots can be taken with an XT2.
     
  16. Dirk Offringa

    Dirk Offringa Premium Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2013
    Messages:
    463
    Likes Received:
    203
    Location:
    France

    -Return to Top-

    I think you have high expectations, maybe too high.

    You don't know nothing about that. It's not because the photo is well exposed with the white balance set right that there was bright white light.

    In that case I'd suggest you'd read the first 5 pages or so of your own thread all over again.

    Sorry but I quit here, this is going nowhere. Good luck, hope you'll sort it out.
     
    CFC1 likes this.
  17. GregWard

    GregWard Premium Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Messages:
    3,367
    Likes Received:
    1,078
    Location:
    London

    -Return to Top-

    OP seems to be talking about pre-focussing not zone focussing? The distinction, to me, being that she's still using AF but selecting a sensible location (e.g. the end of the runway) and achieving focus on that point before the model gets there. Then re-composing the shot (so the in-focus point is where the models head should be). The expectation being that this will mean the AF (which she is still using) will only need to fine-tune the final focus. I would think this should work fine with a DSLR and Phase Detect AF.

    Zone focussing (for me anyway) is similar but involves switching to manual focus and using a suitable aperture to ensure everything between two distances (i.e. a zone) should always be in focus. From a quick read I couldn't see that OP had been doing that? Although I could have missed it.

    To me though there are a few issues that Cathy might be having with this approach. Firstly there seems to be a view (I can't say I've side by side tested this myself) that Fuji lenses are more likely to have issues with "focus/recompose" which I presume she must be doing here? I've no idea why that should be the case but it has come up quite often on this forum. Secondly IF (and I say if because I don't think any of us know exactly?) the lighting is low enough for the X-T2 to switch to contrast detect AF then pre-focussing won't help. CDAF on all cameras (except Panasonic to my knowledge?) always racks through the focus range.

    So, in actual fact, a trial of zone focussing might be considered as one possible solution here?
     
  18. cathy

    cathy Member

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2017
    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    9

    -Return to Top-

    Thanks for all your help. The post after yours by @GregWard is correct. I never said I was using zone focusing. Sorry for any misunderstanding.
     
  19. Narsuitus

    Narsuitus Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2015
    Messages:
    1,199
    Likes Received:
    473
    Location:
    USA

    -Return to Top-

    Maybe you should describe in detail what you mean my "pre focusing" because some must be interpreting this to mean zone focusing.
     
  20. SussexSBP

    SussexSBP Premium Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2015
    Messages:
    767
    Likes Received:
    376
    Location:
    England

    -Return to Top-

    Out of interest op, have you tried with a different lens? And is the firmware for the 16-55 up to date?

    I only ask as I never ever got results I was happy with using my copy of the 16-55 compared to my 50-140! So much so that I got rid of my 16-55!
     

Share This Page