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Occasionally I am called upon to photograph corporate events. Friday night I provided photographic services for a clients non cash, invitation only, “Casino Night” event which drew an attendance of approximately 375 people most of whom were well past retirement age. For this event, the company provided me with an office approximately 10 foot wide by about 12 foot long in which they had set up a black ground at one end and provided a table with a selection of props. I set up one octagon softbox containing a speed light to camera left and one bare speed light “hair light” to camera right and behind the subjects. As guests arrived one of the company employees, Tina, encouraged them to make use of the props that were provided such as hats and signs etc. In a period of 2.75 hours we did two to three shots of 217 setups. Each setup including anywhere from one to four people resulting in 638 images. Within that same time period I grabbed a second camera with 18-55mm lens and on camera EF20 flash and roamed around the event capturing 122 “action” shots of the folks participating in some of the gambling activities and presentation of the awards at the end of the evening. Here are a few examples, the last is my assistant for the evening Tina.
X-T1, ISO 400, 1/180 second, facial recognition, 56mm lens, f5.6
Casino Night Portrait 139 Reduced.jpg
Casino Night Portrait 124 Reduced.jpg
Casino Night Portrait 038 Reduced.jpg
Casino Night Portrait 170 Reduced.jpg
Casino Night Portrait 196 Crop Reduced.jpg
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Having just bought an X10, based on good reviews and a lot of pro-comments about EXR. Mine works well, except for two things:
  • speaker doesn't work - common problem, I think. Shame, but apparently no easy fixes available.
  • the distance scale in MF and AF seems bizarrely innacurate, and says distance is longer than it really is.
Neither of the above is the end-of the world.

I like it, didn't pay too much for it, and was hoping to enthuse my 19 year old daughter into using it to get excited about photography again, whilst I did the same with my X30.

But my daughter 'wants a real camera' like her Nikon DSLR for short DOF. So she doesn't want the X10, and I am in predicament of 'keep' or 'sell'. I would keep it as a backup camera, but I wouldn't want to do that if it failed or became unreliable in the near future.

So I'm trying to gauge just how reliable these things are in practice, hence this poll. Thanks for your time.
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I recently upgraded from X-T10 to X-T20 and I have the 14mm F2.8 lens. I am thinking of getting two more lenses. I am interested in the WR lens cause is small and has good review. I shoot landscape, sometime portrait. So which one or two is more make sense for my setup between 23mm F2, 35mm F2 and 50mm F2? Thanks.
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I posted this question on the 'other' fuji x-form. I didn't realise there were two of them. Anyway, no response so lets try here.

I have just bought a little-used X30. Nice condition. Nice camera. I also bought a fairly good X10, they both arrived on the same day, so I've spent most time with the X10 as I want to learn that, then appreciate the pluses of the X30.

The X30 seems to be working ok, but I have a query, and wonder if it is feature or defect.

When zooming in with focus locked (AFS, button half-pressed), at lower light levels, you can hear a distinct click around three times when zooming in. Looking in the front of the lens, the diaphragm appears to momentarily open a little, then close again on each click. When this happens, there is a bright single flicker in the display and VF. Depending on the lighting situation, it can be really pronounced.

I am wondering if the flickering bright flicker in the display is a defect that I need to worry about, or does anyone else have this happen to their X30.

I have a feeling that it is a live-view 'feature', in that if the diaphragm opens momentarily, presumably to assist checking focus during zoom, and when it opens, more light is reaching the sensor and this surge of light shows up as a momentarily bright LCD display, before the electronics catches up/or the diaphragm closes again to restore live-view brightness to the same intensity as before.

Could you kind folks comment and/or try this for me with your X30s?

It happens at different lighting levels. in one test scenario today (dim room, macro, target object araound 40cm away). I found that were distinct flickers only below 1/60th of a second. Above 1/60th second there were many 'clicks' during zoom, but no flickers.

I also tried a different target, larger, brighter (a cycle helmet) 3m away, non-macro, and hoped to find the same issue at the same sort of shutter speeds, but in that case the flicker was noticeable at SS of around 1/250th.
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I recently read a report the image circle of certain 35 mm format (135 film or 24 X 36 mm media) lenses adequately cover the sensor of the GFX 50S.

I don't have any specifics as to what lenses may work, how well they work, or what focal lengths or optical designs are most likely to work (hence my use of the word rumor). While AF or electronic aperture control would not be supported, a large number of 35 mm format lenses are mechanical devices.

If the number of 35 mm format lenses with and optical quality turns out to be significant, adapted lens usage could become popular.
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Interested in your thoughts - I have 2 X-Pro1s and 3 primes (14, 23, 35) that I enjoy and a D7200 w 24-70mm f/2.8 zoom (and other glass) to cover all things not reasonable with X-Pro1: sports, quick grand-kids, fast does not miss AF , consistent TTL flash performance, you get the idea.

So I keep fighting the, irrational I know, urge to buy an X-Pro2. I have no intention of letting the D7200 go despite weight so in effect the X-Pro2 would probably be pretty much redundant, at least what I think anyway.

A major 'like' for me is X-Pro1 files plus the more considered, and frankly satisfying photographic experience. I've read X-Pro2 files differ - real or imagined I do not know - and are more 'digital' than X-Pro1 files. I have no interest in adding a zoom and X-Pro2 (frankly zoom makes no sense to me on a X-Pro1 or 2 but that is just an opinion; that's why I keep the DSLR).

So if you can identify with any of my ramblings, I'd appreciate your thoughts. Last year got rid of an X-T1 - ergonomics did not work for me so not interested in an X-T2.

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Isn't it a real beauty? Taken with Olympus EM1 Sigma 150mm Macro ISO 200 1/800 F 2.8 LineAB 1.jpg
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Here is one bit of favorable speculation that I just read in a GFX review.

Since the GFX image size is only slightly larger than the 35mm image size, the image circle of some 35mm lenses may be large enough to cover the GFX sensor.

If this is true, being able to adapt some of my 35mm lenses would be very beneficial to me.
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  • Hello all. Just wanted to say hello to everyone. Like some here on the forums, I've just added a Fuji to my Nikon stable. It's the EX2S with a 27mm f/2.8. And I must admit that at first, I was skeptical of the whole "sooc jpegs" looking so incredible that some actually choose to use it instead of the RAW images that needed tweaking in LR/PS.
  • After using it and comparing the jpegs from the Nikon D810/750/500 & Sony A6000. That $@*! is real dawg. Foshizzle mah nizzle.
  • I am impressed.
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One week holiday back last November. More images on my blog.
thanks for looking
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Dear all,
I need help to understand what is going on. I got recently a used x100s. I´ve been playing with a sekonic photometer and the sunny 16 rule. My camera is consistently one full stop wrong. Metering with the sekonic photometer iso: 200; speed: 250; f16 and adjusting the camera like that, the picture looks underexposed, the histogram in camera before or after i take the picture looks underexposed, the histogram after developing the RAW file in camera raw or in raw file converter looks underexposed, the exposimeter in camera before i take the picture is telling me that the picture is underexposed. same situation working with studio strobes, the lecture of the flash meters is perfect, but my camera set for that combination underexposes. working in aperture priority the camera works fine, or any other mode. Working in manual mode and compensating for scenes that are not close to the standard grey the camera works fine, using the built in exposimeter. The sekonic photometer is correct, i compared it with others, and my other camera does not underexposed when i applied the values.
Any idea what is going on?
Thanks a lot.
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Oldest church in continental U.S. X-T2, 10-24, Acros
San Miguel Chapel.jpg
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This is a tricky and absolutely subjective question, but now that I've laid my hands on an X-T20 I realized it would be a good idea to let either my X-T1 or X-Pro1 find a new home, but I'm in a pickle!

I am totally aware this is comparing apples to oranges, but if you were in my situation which one would you keep (X-Pro1 or X-T1) and why?

I'm interested in learning what are the thoughts out there.
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The 2017 Boston Marathon that is. Last week, I posted about my trials and tribulations with the AF regarding this event. While it was not a smashing success, I wanted to share a few shots nonetheless. Any feedback is welcome.

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Hi, I wrote a short review on this interesting lens:

If you have some questions, you can ask here or on medium.
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X-Pro2 + 23mm F1.4:

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Not a lot of savings but a little soon to put the X-T20 on sale?

unnamed.jpg unnamed-2.jpg unnamed-3.jpg
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Out wandering around with the X-T2/55-200 and found some spoonbills feeding. . . . . Spoonbill_042217.jpg
SOOC JPG cropped a little bit with Affinity Photo.
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Around this time of year, ten years ago, on a visit to Washington I went to photograph the White House. I set up my tripod on the sidewalk just outside the wrought iron fence in front. Immediately two young female police officers accosted me with “Sorry sir, no tripods allowed here!” I asked why, and they explained that a tripod could be used to mount a rifle on top, and fire it at the White House. One of them looked it up in their special White House security manual and showed me. This made no sense to me, as I was obviously carrying only a camera around my neck, and no rifle. Theoretically, if I had had a rifle and started to mount it on my tripod (somehow), they could have shot me, many times, as soon as they saw the rifle.

I tried to take hand held photos, but they were blurry. I then asked “Is it also forbidden to use a monopod?” They consulted the manual again, and replied that it didn’t mention monopods, so it must be OK. I put the camera on the tripod and pressed its legs together to form a “monopod”. The police officers allowed me to take the photos on my “monopod".

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Fuji makes some Bayer Sensor cameras as well as the X-Trans models that most of us use. The new Fuji MF camera has a Bayer sensor, as well as the XA models.
Some time ago I bought a used Pentax K5iis, which has a 16mp Bayer array sensor without an anti-aliasing filter. Part of the reason I bought this camera was so that I could compare the files it produces to the X-Trans files I get out of my X-Pro1 and X-E2. The DSLR is not as flexible and easy to shoot with, and it doesn't handle high ISO as well as the Fuji cameras, but it is a rock solid weatherproof camera, and I have started using it more and more often. As I get used to it, and learn how to fine tune exposure and process the Pentax files I am starting to really like this camera. There are some situations where the Fuji cameras beat the Pentax, but there are other occasions where I prefer the rich, strong colors that come out of the Bayer sensor, and this is true despite my having a much better array of lenses for the Fuji cameras. I recently added a Fuji X-A1 to my collection as well. This is also one more reason to be very interested in the new MF Fuji, which has a Bayer sensor. I am starting to depend on the Pentax when I want to shoot in the rain. Here is an example:

Dewy Rose.jpg
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It is that time of year...



Both shot with XF 100-400 on an XT-1
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Is the USB input standard 5 volt power? I'm changing batteries too often in the studio, need to hook up to a power source.
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Hi Forum members. I just found this Forum and wanted to add a quick greeting. I have used Nikon SLR and DSLR cameras since the 1970s. Last year after being impressed by a lot of YouTube and other online reviews I bought a Fujifilm X-Pro2 with 18-135 WR lens. I loved both from Day 1. I have since added a 35mm F2 WR and 23mm F2 WR. I have not dropped my Nikon kit but I do find that my camera of choice is now the Fuji, especially for street shooting which I love. My photography normally takes place in London, where I live, but also in Cambridge, Bury St Edmunds, Norwich, Rochester and many other towns and cities in the south of England. I am still getting to grips with the X-Pro2 and learn something new every day but it produces some stunning images which I find amazing. I have a rather nice leather half-case which helps protect the body finish and a Lensmate Thumb Grip for a little more comfort and security. I have had a look at a few of the posts on the Forum and have already picked up some good stuff. I may post a couple of questions myself such as "Is it possible to use my Nikon SB-700 Speedlight on-camera?" but I will look for the proper area to post that. Looking forward to taking part on here and just want to wish everyone a good day.
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Not usually my lens for day to day activity but realised I'd missed it!
X-T2, Acros [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
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Love this great Asian city and its history. Here's a few from the weekend. A studio shot that I played with of the skyline, the famous Nanjing Lu Pedestrian Shopping Street, and my favorite image showing a dumpling maker thru glass in the old town off Fujian Road. X-E2 and XF 18-55mm and processed in LR. Don



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I was riding along with Pete when I turned my head to look out the window...
I saw in the window glass the sun shining in such a way on clouds and trees...

Reflection in Car Window rz2   DSCF9968.JPG Fuji X-T1 with the Fuji 60 f2.4

This was not through the glass but on the glass...sounds strange as I say this, but I do not
know any other way to describe it...

I have never experienced this phenomenon before, and I wanted to share it. It only lasted
a brief moment as we were moving along, and the sun and light were changing... [​IMG]
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Anyone else using adapted enlarger lenses? Here are a couple from my EL Nikkor 50mm f/2.8. They've come out a bit 'moody', which might be the lens or it might be me...

Pink Pano
by Nick Hunt, on Flickr

Self Portrait with Panels
by Nick Hunt, on Flickr

Please post your pictures taken with adapted enlarger lenses in this thread, and let us know what lens you are using and how you like it.
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Every time I have fun with the X-T2.

The end and beginning of a flower (different types)

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This question has probably been asked a thousand times, but rather than rake thru the forum I've taken the lazy option and started another thread.
I have the XF35 f1.4, this is on my X-T1 all the time. I had an XF 56 f1.2 and while I think this lens is absolutely stunning, superb build quality and results, I had next to no use for this focal length, so I sold it, to fund either one of the 23mm or, as an outsider the 18 or 16 mm.
I have found that while using the 35mm, about 30% of the time I could use a wider angle, mainly for holidays, group photos, family photos (I have a large family)

For me IQ and ability for low light photography is important, but if there is not much in it between these 4 lenses what should I go for ? The 18mm would be handy for travel, but does it compete with say the 23mm f2?
Does the 23mm f1.4 have noticeably better IQ than the 23mm f2?

Incidentally, I had the 56mm for a year and got the same price as I paid for it!

Thank you for any views you may have,
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X-T2 and XF55-200mm on a relatively calm Spring morning at a local State Park.

Thanks for looking,
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Tried this lens yesterday and very like how it works. It's a bit tough to focus due to quite rapid focus move during low angle ring rotation, it it will just take a little time to get used.




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pls help to clarify. If my understanding is correct in that if i use the digital zoom on the x100f, it basically just crops and extrapolates back to the normal file size. This would mean portraits would still be prone to the same lack of compression youo would want if shooting a portrait at 70mm.


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Miss the joystick but other than that - really nice! A light drizzle started to fall right after we left the house. Would have felt better if the setup were WR but not a big deal. Kept it tucked under a jacket. Some quickie jpegs...


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Since I switched from Nikon to Fuji four years ago I have been shooting both jpeg and RAF files. The habit began with the Nikon cameras as I found that I was able to get much more out of the NEF files under poor conditions or when I made a mistake (very rare occurrence). Four years later I have thousands of RAF files that I've never done anything with as the jpegs are so good.
My rationale has been that memory is cheap and you never know. Now I'm questioning my methodology.
Can I ask what you guys do? I only shoot a lot of pictures one time a year on a month long photo trip. That trip is coming up next month and I'd value opinions.
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